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Crack Face

5.9, Trad,  Avg: 1.8 from 15 votes
FA: Suchoski
California > Lake Tahoe > Highway 50 Corr… > Sugarloaf Area > Sugarloaf > W Face

Description

A nice thin sustained lieback dihedral with tons of opportunities for gear makes this a good easily accessible route for both the novice and more experienced climber looking for a route without a big grade or committing climbing above gear.

Start up a thin finger crack lieback until the corner peters out and you can reach (not far) to the right and clip a bolt which protects a few moves that get you out of the corner and onto the face. Follow the bolts of Happy Face to the anchors.

Location

An obvious left facing dihedral just to the left of Happy Face.

Protection

Cams .4"-.75" Nuts, 1 set.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Crack Face (dihedral - lower half of image) and Happy Face (climber, Andrew Christensen, at anchor)
[Hide Photo] Crack Face (dihedral - lower half of image) and Happy Face (climber, Andrew Christensen, at anchor)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kelley Gilleran
Meadow Vista
 
[Hide Comment] I think the top of Happy Face is harder that 5.9 no? Feb 10, 2018
GizzardJones
Pollock Pines, CA
  5.9
[Hide Comment] awesome sleeper route. soo good and so fun. yeah upper bolt section is prob 10a/b?, BUT...u can bust left to anchors after the 5.9 corner if you want. I chose to go through the bolt line. Jul 11, 2019
Frodeman
[Hide Comment] There are two ways to do this, you could go straight up after joining happy face which is something like 10- on micro edges, or you can go right after you do the insecure move onto the sloping ledge and use the bolt there as a directional for the anchor above Hyperspace. The latter is propably 9+, the move onto the ledge is weirder than anything in the corner. The corner is pretty dirty right now in mid 2021. May 3, 2021