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Somebody open my Dew

5.11a/b, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 16 votes
FA: Steve Pope and Terry Wright
N Carolina > 3. Piedmont Region > Rocky Face Recr… > Section 5 > Lower Tier
Warning Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags DetailsDrop down

Description

Nice route that goes up very solid rock. Make some easy moves to reach a stance to the left of a sharp upward pointing flake. Move left and get established under a small bulge/roof. Clip bolts below the bulge and one bolt above it (might be reachy for some). Pulling over the bulge is the crux. Head up the steep slab (10+/11a) to a small ledge with double bolt anchors. Admire the overhanging finger crack extension (Bullistics 5.10+/5.11a) directly above you.

Location

Located on the right side of the main face on a section of steep slab near the point where the the face starts curving around. To the left is the obvious line of Lightning Bolt Crack. There are two bolted routes that head up the slab. This is the leftmost line.

Protection

Bolts to double ring anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Onsight w/ the extension included
[Hide Photo] Onsight w/ the extension included
Emil on Somebody Open My Dew (5.11a/b)
[Hide Photo] Emil on Somebody Open My Dew (5.11a/b)
Start of "Somebody open my Dew"
[Hide Photo] Start of "Somebody open my Dew"
Looking up at the crux overlap
[Hide Photo] Looking up at the crux overlap

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Abel Jones
Bishop, CA
  5.11-
[Hide Comment] Pretty fun with extension. I think this is 11-... based a cold day ascent and on the old hand drawn guide by steve pope. The extension felt 10c-ish. Pretty good although the ledge below the extension was something to consider. Jan 7, 2014
Emil Briggs
  5.11a/b
[Hide Comment] Abel you might be right. The overlap is hard for me to judge. Pulling directly over it is very hard (at least for me) but there may be a better sequence.

Edit: After getting on this again and seeing other members of our party give it a go it looks to me like it's height dependent. For taller climbers the slab may be the hardest part and 11a is about right. For shorter folks the overlap is the crux and will probably feel harder than 11a. Jan 8, 2014
Michael Funk
Stony Point, NC
[Hide Comment] Isn’t “Ain’t that a Mess” above “open my dew”? Jan 7, 2023