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Somebody open my Dew
5.11a/b,
Sport, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 2.8 from 16
votes
FA: Steve Pope and Terry Wright
N Carolina
> 3. Piedmont Region
> Rocky Face Recr…
> Section 5
> Lower Tier
Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags
Details
The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
Nice route that goes up very solid rock. Make some easy moves to reach a stance to the left of a sharp upward pointing flake. Move left and get established under a small bulge/roof. Clip bolts below the bulge and one bolt above it (might be reachy for some). Pulling over the bulge is the crux. Head up the steep slab (10+/11a) to a small ledge with double bolt anchors. Admire the overhanging finger crack extension (Bullistics 5.10+/5.11a) directly above you.
Location
Located on the right side of the main face on a section of steep slab near the point where the the face starts curving around. To the left is the obvious line of Lightning Bolt Crack. There are two bolted routes that head up the slab. This is the leftmost line.
Protection
Bolts to double ring anchors.
Bishop, CA
Edit: After getting on this again and seeing other members of our party give it a go it looks to me like it's height dependent. For taller climbers the slab may be the hardest part and 11a is about right. For shorter folks the overlap is the crux and will probably feel harder than 11a. Jan 8, 2014
Stony Point, NC