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Checkered Demon Couloir
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British AI3 Steep Snow
Avg: 3.6 from 5
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Routes in Checkered Demon
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Kindergarten Gully T AI2 Easy Snow |
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Checkered Demon Couloir T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI3 Steep Snow |
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Chex Mix T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Devil Wears Plaid, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | John Fischer and Doug Robinson - October 1970 |
| Page Views: | 3,162 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Preston Rhea on Dec 27, 2013 · Updates |
| Admins: | Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Checkered Demon is one of the infamous Sierra ice climbs, much akin to Ice Nine in the fact everyone has heard about it and not many people know where it even is, let alone have climbed it. It is a quality climb that is rarely in good ice climbing shape.
The route starts with a couple pitches of 45 degree snow/ice as the couloir steadily narrows and steepens. Near the top of the couloir, the couloir narrows down to three feet and steepens to about 55 degrees. From the start of narrows, a pitch or two of mixed climbing (5.6) leads to the top.
The route starts with a couple pitches of 45 degree snow/ice as the couloir steadily narrows and steepens. Near the top of the couloir, the couloir narrows down to three feet and steepens to about 55 degrees. From the start of narrows, a pitch or two of mixed climbing (5.6) leads to the top.
Location
A super obvious and beautiful arete separates two couloirs. The couloir to the right is Checkered Demon.
Despite the looks, apparently this couloir has been skied, so early season that could be an option for the brave. Another early season option is to ski or downclimb Kindergarten Gully. Otherwise, take the sandy slopes south of the couloir, contouring around the peak to the east and eventually the northeast back to where you parked.
Despite the looks, apparently this couloir has been skied, so early season that could be an option for the brave. Another early season option is to ski or downclimb Kindergarten Gully. Otherwise, take the sandy slopes south of the couloir, contouring around the peak to the east and eventually the northeast back to where you parked.
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