Type: Trad, 115 ft (35 m)
FA: Killis Howard, C. Long, ...
Page Views: 2,413 total · 18/month
Shared By: Cunning Linguist on Dec 21, 2013
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen

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Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Sparsely protected but reasonably safe face climbing up the most prominent features on the left side of the wall, 2 short stacked black varnished corners. Route was put in ground-up, onsight, but may become a fairly popular toprope due to the relative ease of obtaining the anchors from the central ledge where many of the routes finish. The character of this one is a bit different in that it is not as blank or slab-oriented as some of the existing routes, more of a mellow face climb with some spice.

Location Suggest change

30 feet left of Clutch Cargo is a large barrel cactus, above which are visible a few red-painted camo hangers. The route climbs up to and through the 2 short varnished corners before finishing up the face to an anchor on the left edge of the central scoop where several of the routes on this cliff finish.

Protection Suggest change

As is typical on Ultraman Wall, climbing is lower-angle and fairly runout. A single rack of cams to 1" and wires is plenty for the route, long slings for choking chickenheads and extending placements in the two corner sections to cut down on drag. Strong leaders will probably be happy getting by with a #13 nut and a .4 or .5 cam, the climbing is secure and protected by bolts anywhere near cruxy moves.

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