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> High Rock
Crow
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 4 from 1
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Routes in High Rock
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Still Waters Run Deep S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Crow T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Coronation Street T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Shakin' Like a Leaf S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 390 ft (118 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | P Littlejohn, M Chambers, 1970 |
| Page Views: | 756 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Nick Russell on Dec 7, 2013 |
| Admins: | Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Jack Copland |
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Description
A Littlejohn masterpiece and a classic of its genre: long, adventurous, not without a fair helping of loose rock and vegetation. Fortunately, there is also plenty of excellent, exposed climbing on clean, sound rock.
P1. Start up a crack on the left, but quickly break right into the corner. Bridge up this, past several pitons in varying states of decay, to the capping overhang. Trend rightwards through the overhang to less steep ground, and proceed more easily upwards to a stance below a corner. Good nut belay. 25m, 5b
P2. Follow the corner easily, and continue up a crack and the wall above to gain the vegetated ledge, just to the right of a tree. The move onto the ledge requires use of the in situ ivy. Belay on fixed nuts. 25m, 5a
P3. Take the wall above the stance directly to a small roof, tricky but the difficulties are short-lived. A good thread at foot-level supplements the old bolt on the left and rusty piton on the right. Trend rightwards through the steep ground then gain a thin crack on the right. Follow the crack for about 10m until it is possible to trend left across the wall to a 2-piton belay below the main horizontal break. The leftwards traverse is bold, but the holds are good. 25m, 5c
P4. Traverse leftwards to the base of a crack-system. Follow the cracks, in a wonderfully exposed position for about 20m, until a step right into another crack is possible. Continue up this crack/corner (right facing), for another 20m then move left again up blocky ground to gain the top. Belay on trees a little way back from the edge. 45m, 5c.
P1. Start up a crack on the left, but quickly break right into the corner. Bridge up this, past several pitons in varying states of decay, to the capping overhang. Trend rightwards through the overhang to less steep ground, and proceed more easily upwards to a stance below a corner. Good nut belay. 25m, 5b
P2. Follow the corner easily, and continue up a crack and the wall above to gain the vegetated ledge, just to the right of a tree. The move onto the ledge requires use of the in situ ivy. Belay on fixed nuts. 25m, 5a
P3. Take the wall above the stance directly to a small roof, tricky but the difficulties are short-lived. A good thread at foot-level supplements the old bolt on the left and rusty piton on the right. Trend rightwards through the steep ground then gain a thin crack on the right. Follow the crack for about 10m until it is possible to trend left across the wall to a 2-piton belay below the main horizontal break. The leftwards traverse is bold, but the holds are good. 25m, 5c
P4. Traverse leftwards to the base of a crack-system. Follow the cracks, in a wonderfully exposed position for about 20m, until a step right into another crack is possible. Continue up this crack/corner (right facing), for another 20m then move left again up blocky ground to gain the top. Belay on trees a little way back from the edge. 45m, 5c.
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