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Mako Roof

5.12a, Sport, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 3 from 3 votes
FA: Bob Parrot and Steve Buchan 7/7/1979
Maine > a. Western Moun… > Jockey Cap > 3. S Face - Land of O…
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Description

Mako roof makes its way up though some steep blocky features before making a throw for a horizontal beneath a large roof. A very pumpy hand traverse leads to a somewhat desperate clip and a V3+ boulder problem to establish on the large flake. Clip the 3rd bolt and go up about 6-10 feet of much lower angle rock and clip the anchor. An extension could easily be added to this route as the steep slab continues up another 20 meters of so. While there aren't any showstopper moves on this, the boulder problem is pretty powerful and it comes right at the end of a very pumpy traverse and the long throw to the horizontal. If you have the traverse and clip dialed this may feel soft in the grade, but the onsight may feel stiff. The rock quality is superb with good friction but not sharp.

Location

Left most route that starts under the large roofs on the right side of the South Face

Protection

Thread followed by 3 bolts. Only 1 bolt anchor!!

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The route starts below the thread and heads left around the obvious flake
[Hide Photo] The route starts below the thread and heads left around the obvious flake

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tristan Baldwin
Amherst, NH
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] The last time I was there the bolts in this route appeared to be in great shape and rock quality is for the most part superb. The thread might be a little suspect now so you might consider stick clipping up to the first bolt. The line bakes in the sun all day. The roof or trees might shade it in mid summer, but I suspect not. As a result, I doubt there is ever any real moisture on the route so the bolts should last a nice long time. There are definitely gear placements until you make it left around the roof. I forget exactly what is above that, but I don't remember anything worthwhile. Dec 9, 2015