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Routes in 3. South Face - Land of Overhangs
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Freda T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Great White S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Hammerhead S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Mako Roof S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Occam's Razor S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Orthography S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pepperoni Mushroom T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Puff Fish, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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South Flake, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sycamore S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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| Type: | Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Bob Parrot and Steve Buchan 7/7/1979 |
| Page Views: | 1,859 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Tristan Baldwin on Dec 1, 2013 |
| Admins: | Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Access Issue: Peregrine Falcons in Maine
Details
Maine Peregrine Falcons breeding season extends from mid-March through July or August. Hiking or climbing near nesting peregrines can cause abandonment and death of eggs/young. If adults are away from the nest, eggs or young can become overheated, chilled, or chicks can miss feedings. Be on the lookout for agitated falcons that may vocalize, take avoidance flights, or dive-bomb those that are too close. If you encounter an aggressive peregrine falcon please immediately leave the area, and report incidents to Erynn Call, State Raptor Specialist, MDIFW, erynn.call@maine.gov.
To learn more about peregrines in Maine, check out this link: maine.gov/ifw/fish-wildlife…
To learn more about peregrines in Maine, check out this link: maine.gov/ifw/fish-wildlife…
Description
Mako roof makes its way up though some steep blocky features before making a throw for a horizontal beneath a large roof. A very pumpy hand traverse leads to a somewhat desperate clip and a V3+ boulder problem to establish on the large flake. Clip the 3rd bolt and go up about 6-10 feet of much lower angle rock and clip the anchor. An extension could easily be added to this route as the steep slab continues up another 20 meters of so. While there aren't any showstopper moves on this, the boulder problem is pretty powerful and it comes right at the end of a very pumpy traverse and the long throw to the horizontal. If you have the traverse and clip dialed this may feel soft in the grade, but the onsight may feel stiff. The rock quality is superb with good friction but not sharp.
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