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The Scorpion

5.12a, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3.7 from 6 votes
FA: Bill NewComb, Jerry Messinger
Oregon > Southwest Oregon > Rattlesnake > (8)Dominator Wall

Description

Mega! Climbs the arete at the lowest point of the Dominator Wall. Bouldery crux comes at about 1/3 height. Then climb to a ledge shared with "Dead Souls". After that it's go-time with a pumpy overhanging knife-edge arete and another crux move at the second to last bolt. Again... MEGA!

Location

At the lowest point of the Dominator wall. Starts right off the approach trail. Right of "Dead Souls".

Protection

14 bolts, 2 bolt anchor w/lowering hardware.

Tie a knot in your 60 or better yet buy a 70.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Fighting the pump through the upper crux
[Hide Photo] Fighting the pump through the upper crux
Nearing the top of the Scorpion
[Hide Photo] Nearing the top of the Scorpion
Diana finishing up the last moves of the awesome knife arete! Photo taken below Karakoram.
[Hide Photo] Diana finishing up the last moves of the awesome knife arete! Photo taken below Karakoram.
The Scorpion arete.
[Hide Photo] The Scorpion arete.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Charlie Brown
Superior, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] Great climb. High first bolt. Oct 10, 2021
Winston Mueller
Medford, OR
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Super good climb.. a few opinions..

Cruxes are about as hard as the Charybdis crux but there’s two.. climbing is way less sustained than Saturnalia with the exception of the two crux sequences which are broken up by full no hands non balancey rests. It is also far less technical than Saturnalia. I think this is a great climb, maybe an easy 12a. Crux for a short person may be clipping the two bolts in the roof of the first crux, (bolt 3 and 4) as the actual roof moves are probably easier if a climber can use the high feet. Overall, quality route aesthetic upper arete! Nov 24, 2022