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It's a Kind of Magic
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
FA: | Original route: F Haden, M Crocker (1994), Modern route: M Crocker, D Jenkin, 2008 |
Page Views: | 519 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Nick Russell on Nov 14, 2013 |
Admins: | Chris Owen, Euan Cameron |
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Description
A steady start up to the main bulge gets the blood flowing for a technical and powerful sequence through the steep ground. The holds all seem to face the wrong way, and the crux move is a long reach off and undercling to a jug. From here, bolt 4 could be clipped high, but it's better to make another move to more good holds on the right before clipping. Easier climbing, but still with interest, leads to the top.
A reliable winter route, drying quickly and not taking too much seepage, even staying dry (in the lower section) after light rain!
A reliable winter route, drying quickly and not taking too much seepage, even staying dry (in the lower section) after light rain!
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