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Washington
> Central-E Casca…
> Leavenworth
> Icicle Creek
> Purina & Careno…
> Purina Crags
Glass Eye
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3.1 from 31
votes
Routes in Purina Crags
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Little Lebowski, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shocker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Staring at the Sun S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Poison Ivy Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Harlequin T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Chow Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crude Buddha S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Existential Exit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ordinary Crack Varation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ordinary Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Exit Wound T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Ride of the Valkyries T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Crack or Lieback S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Orange Mustard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Glass Eye T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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One Eye T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Late for Dinner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Last Call T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Steele Curtain T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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El Caliente T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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just another sucker on the vine T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Lee Cunningham |
| Page Views: | 2,344 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Geoff Georges on Oct 15, 2013 |
| Admins: | Hangdog Hank, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Each year, the USFS monitors for raptor nesting.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
Description
I am tempted to rate this route 5.9, this may be the most sandbagged 5.8 in Leavenworth, but in keeping with the guide book it will be a good challenge for the 5.8 leader.
I don't always tape up, but this is better with tape gloves.
I don't always tape up, but this is better with tape gloves.
Location
After passing a very large roof along the Careno trail Glass Eye stands out as the nice looking vertical hand crack that arches up to the right.
Protection
gear to 4". You may want 2 each Camalot #.5, #2, #3.
there is a bolt for the bolted face climb One Eye that you can clip up near the top
The old bolted anchor is a 20' traverse to the right and is 1/4" rusty bolts and old webbing.
You could also continue up One Eye at the bolt to another bolt above the ledge, to hand crack through a roof to a new SS anchor ( 10b).
there is a bolt for the bolted face climb One Eye that you can clip up near the top
The old bolted anchor is a 20' traverse to the right and is 1/4" rusty bolts and old webbing.
You could also continue up One Eye at the bolt to another bolt above the ledge, to hand crack through a roof to a new SS anchor ( 10b).
6 Comments