Western Harlot
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3 from 34 votes
Type: | Sport, 338 ft (102 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | Jamie Chong, Ben Groundwater, Alex Wigley, Conny Amelunxen |
Page Views: | 6,357 total · 47/month |
Shared By: | AlexWigley on Oct 5, 2013 · Updates |
Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
The logging company is re-activating the old logging road which the trail to the crags followed. They will be working Monday-Saturday 5am-5pm until completion which will hopefully be at the middle or end of June. The work involves blasting and heavy machinery so there is significant risk to anyone attempting to pass through without getting in contact with the workers.
It should still be possible to access the Outpost but it is critical that climbers follow the procedure laid out below.
1. When you reach the parking spot at the hairpin bend make sure your vehicle does not obstruct any of their machinery or access into and out of the new road
2. There is a sign posted at the parking where the new road begins. Before proceeding make sure you call the number on the sign or make radio contact with the workers
3. Follow their instructions - you may have to wait till blasting is finished
4. Once you have finished climbing and are heading out you should call them again to make sure you are clear to hike through
A couple of other things to bear in mind:
Stay well back from any machinery you see operating and wait for them to see you and stop working. They will be cutting down trees and it is very hazardous to be even remotely near them if they haven’t seen you.
Signal might be spotty but please make sure you have contact before trying to go through the area. When we went up to test out the procedure and check it out we had no issues calling on Bell’s network.
Description
Follow the faint arrete after the blocky start. The crux is just below the anchor.
P2: 30m, 5.9, 11 bolts
Get to the fault and inch right looking for holds as it gets steeper. Easier above.
P3: 28m, 5.8, 8 bolts
Work your way up to the rest before the crux. Left or right here? Belay next to the old stump.
P4: 20m, 5.3, 3 bolts
Up the blunt ridge with amazing views. Bring a picnic for the top.
CAUTION: Consider this climb a mountaineering route. Always wear a Helmet. There is still rockfall potential.
Location
Follow the cairned and flagged path toward Centurion. About 75m before reaching that climb the trail forks and the Western Harlot trail switches back up and right. Following the rough trail aim for the gully on the right of the formation. Continue along the base of the rock up the rope past the amazing 5.14(?) crack. Above the rope trends left. The climb is around the corner from the giant tree.
Rappel the climb. One rappel anchor is just left of the second climbing station.
GPS coordinates for the start of the route: 49.93533, -123.15589
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