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Optimus Prime

5.10b, Sport, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 2.1 from 23 votes
FA: Clay Frisbie 2012
Arkansas > North-Central A… > Horseshoe Canyo… > E Side > Roman Wall

Description

A very low first bolt marks the delicate crux to this route which ends with easier climbing and a shared anchor with Sentinel Prime.

Location

Between Sentinel Prime and Acree Prime

Protection

5 bolts to anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Right side of Roman Wall from the bolts for Spartacus in the upper right to Acree Prime at the far right with climbers on Sybarite (left) and Aphrodite (right).
[Hide Photo] Right side of Roman Wall from the bolts for Spartacus in the upper right to Acree Prime at the far right with climbers on Sybarite (left) and Aphrodite (right).
The crux start of Optimus Prime on a sunny May morning-- a great place to beat the heat. At such times, the Roman Wall (with its East Side location, shade, and great rock) gets a little more crowded.
[Hide Photo] The crux start of Optimus Prime on a sunny May morning-- a great place to beat the heat. At such times, the Roman Wall (with its East Side location, shade, and great rock) gets a little more crowded.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mark Orsag
Omaha, NE
  5.10b/c
[Hide Comment] Sentinel Prime (SP) and Optimus Prime (OP) share anchors and the last bolt (which is way off line for SP). Start of OP was pretty tough and a bit cryptic for 10b (a stick clip will come in handy).At least one hold has broken off in the crux, and there is a visible dark orange scar where it was. Very top of both routes (sort of shared) is harder than it looks from the ground. A lead fall from the left side of that steep 2nd sub-crux could be problematic. May 7, 2016