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Tideways

5.10+, Trad, 75 ft (23 m),  Avg: 2 from 3 votes
FA: Geir Hundal, Clay Mansfield
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mt Lemmon (Sant… > Mt Lemmon (Cata… > 7 - Upper Highway > Reef of Rocks > Aegir

Description

This is a wild and airy variation linking the EFR classic Reef Break to Reefer Madness. Clay spotted this crazy-looking traverse 200' off the deck and pointed it out to me. We decided to establish a new route that included the traverse as it looked so appealing.

Our first attempt to reach the traverse was via an old EFR project about 30 feet right of Reef Break. It became apparent this route was not going to take us to the start of the traverse, so Eric invited us to establish the traverse as a variation to Reef Break instead.

On the FA we were really psyched to find that the pitch went at a reasonable grade and was as exposed as it looked from the ground. With a bit more cleaning it will be a great variation to Eric's route.

Location

Climb the first two pitches of Reef Break. From here traverse up and right all the way to the last pitch of Reefer Madness (just left of the huge roof). Belay here or continue another 30' right (5.7) to a better belay stance and easier climbing to the top.

Protection

Singles to blue camalot, two bolts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Another picture of the FA courtesy of EFR.
[Hide Photo] Another picture of the FA courtesy of EFR.
Clay and Geir on the FA, photo by EFR
[Hide Photo] Clay and Geir on the FA, photo by EFR

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
[Hide Comment] That's a good name! Sep 23, 2013