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Routes in (u) Red Wall
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Titanium Jag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bill's Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Finger Puppet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Phantasmagoria S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Orgasmophoria S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pop Art S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dances with Clams S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Bay of Pigs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Animal Farm S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Commie Pinkos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dirty Pinkos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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A Stroke of Brilliance T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Super Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Amphetamine Grip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Papillion S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gulag Archipelago S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Helter Skelter Direct S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Ride The Lightning S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Chairman Mao's Little Red Book T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Fingers of Fate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sole Survivor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lets Face It S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Peking T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitch of Peking) T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Straight Outta' Peking S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Burma Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Moscow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Breakdown in Paradise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Havana T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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I Almost Died T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Flex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 4 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 27,982 total · 198/month |
| Shared By: | S. Eppes on Sep 21, 2013 |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
Original information was sent to SmithRock.com from Ted Stahl and was edited by Mike Volk:
Mike Reusse and I completed the climb [Dirty Pinkos] last summer but were hesitant to post until it was cleaned further. I think it is a great adventure route. Similar in rock quality to "Wherever I May Roam" when it was first put up. The crux of the route is on the second pitch. The third pitch is a 120' traverse and goes at 5.8. Leader and follower need to be strong on 5.8. The fourth pitch is slabby 5.5 to a vertical 5.8 move getting off the climb.
Link to the topo: web.archive.org/web/2015090…
1st Pitch - Thin moves at the start leads to fun slab climbing up the outside corner next to the start of Super Slab. Use the anchors for SS or Animal Farm.
2nd Pitch- Strait up from the SS anchors, clip a bolt and head up through some blocks and on to the face. Follow the bolt line up to a set of chains.
3rd Pitch-Traverse right across a cool gully filled with neon lichen and up to a ledge with two bolts. Airy and fun.
4th Pitch- Follow the bolt line up the slab to a steep finish. This pitch has the most loose rock. You could probably finish via Gulag Archipelago as well. Don't use the gully as rockfall would be very dangerous for people at the base.
Walk off or you might be able to rappel one of the other routes near by
The climb is mostly solid and will clean up nicely once its seen more ascents.
Mike Reusse and I completed the climb [Dirty Pinkos] last summer but were hesitant to post until it was cleaned further. I think it is a great adventure route. Similar in rock quality to "Wherever I May Roam" when it was first put up. The crux of the route is on the second pitch. The third pitch is a 120' traverse and goes at 5.8. Leader and follower need to be strong on 5.8. The fourth pitch is slabby 5.5 to a vertical 5.8 move getting off the climb.
Link to the topo: web.archive.org/web/2015090…
1st Pitch - Thin moves at the start leads to fun slab climbing up the outside corner next to the start of Super Slab. Use the anchors for SS or Animal Farm.
2nd Pitch- Strait up from the SS anchors, clip a bolt and head up through some blocks and on to the face. Follow the bolt line up to a set of chains.
3rd Pitch-Traverse right across a cool gully filled with neon lichen and up to a ledge with two bolts. Airy and fun.
4th Pitch- Follow the bolt line up the slab to a steep finish. This pitch has the most loose rock. You could probably finish via Gulag Archipelago as well. Don't use the gully as rockfall would be very dangerous for people at the base.
Walk off or you might be able to rappel one of the other routes near by
The climb is mostly solid and will clean up nicely once its seen more ascents.
Photos
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