Type: Trad, 125 ft (38 m)
FA: R. Hall and S. Matz spring 2013
Page Views: 736 total · 5/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Sep 17, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


5 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

Merlin’s Wand 5.8- G / ( 5.4-5.5R ) F.A. R. Hall and S. Matz spring 2013

Slightly thinner than its neighbor, Merlin.

P1 – Climb directly up (5.4-5.5R until the first bolt),(bolts near the cruxes). Above the 2nd bolt continue straight up keeping 6 to 10 feet left of Merlin. Continue, passing a 3rd 3/8" bolt to the Merlin belay. 115-120ft 5.8- ( The Merlin belay/rap station is two new 3/8” bolts) BEWARE THE HOLLOW FLAKE ABOVE and LEFT of the ANCHOR: NO CAMS !

Rap from the Merlin Chain anchor with a single, full-length 60m, or double 50m; or....

P2 – ...Continue up in any number of ways, best is probably the pitch2 described for "False" Holy Smoke.

Location Suggest change

START- Look for the 2 new 3/8” SS bolts about 25-30 ft right of the "False" Holy Smoke flake and 6-8 feet left of the BLACK 3/8" 1st bolt of Merlin. (Only the 1st Merlin bolt is visible.) Belay on the “path” in the trees about 20-25ft the right of the climb. Traverse in on the 2” ledge until directly below the two, new 3/8” bolts.

Protection Suggest change

3 short draws, Optional: one long (6 ft) sling to also clip the 2nd bolt of Merlin. Use the Merlin anchor/rap.

Photos

0 Comments