Type: | Trad, 125 ft (38 m) |
FA: | R. Hall and S. Matz spring 2013 |
Page Views: | 736 total · 5/month |
Shared By: | Robert Hall on Sep 17, 2013 |
Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
Merlins Wand 5.8- G / ( 5.4-5.5R ) F.A. R. Hall and S. Matz spring 2013
Slightly thinner than its neighbor, Merlin.
P1 Climb directly up (5.4-5.5R until the first bolt),(bolts near the cruxes). Above the 2nd bolt continue straight up keeping 6 to 10 feet left of Merlin. Continue, passing a 3rd 3/8" bolt to the Merlin belay. 115-120ft 5.8- ( The Merlin belay/rap station is two new 3/8 bolts) BEWARE THE HOLLOW FLAKE ABOVE and LEFT of the ANCHOR: NO CAMS !
Rap from the Merlin Chain anchor with a single, full-length 60m, or double 50m; or....
P2 ...Continue up in any number of ways, best is probably the pitch2 described for "False" Holy Smoke.
Slightly thinner than its neighbor, Merlin.
P1 Climb directly up (5.4-5.5R until the first bolt),(bolts near the cruxes). Above the 2nd bolt continue straight up keeping 6 to 10 feet left of Merlin. Continue, passing a 3rd 3/8" bolt to the Merlin belay. 115-120ft 5.8- ( The Merlin belay/rap station is two new 3/8 bolts) BEWARE THE HOLLOW FLAKE ABOVE and LEFT of the ANCHOR: NO CAMS !
Rap from the Merlin Chain anchor with a single, full-length 60m, or double 50m; or....
P2 ...Continue up in any number of ways, best is probably the pitch2 described for "False" Holy Smoke.
Location
START- Look for the 2 new 3/8 SS bolts about 25-30 ft right of the "False" Holy Smoke flake and 6-8 feet left of the BLACK 3/8" 1st bolt of Merlin. (Only the 1st Merlin bolt is visible.) Belay on the path in the trees about 20-25ft the right of the climb. Traverse in on the 2 ledge until directly below the two, new 3/8 bolts.
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