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Quartzite Sans Stainless
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.4 from 36
votes
Routes in Dogwood Crag
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A Modest Man from Mandrake S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ain't no Party, Ain't no Disco T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Cockroach Slip V2 5+ |
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Cross-Eyed and Painless S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Dirty Unknown TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Drunken Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Golemoly V1 5 |
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Haven't A Clue S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hyper-Gamma Spaces T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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I Think I'm Going Bald S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Life During Wartime T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Lion of Zion, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Little Creatures T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Little Critters T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Little Things S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Modest Man From Drakeman S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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On the Skids S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Quartzite Sans Stainless T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Roadside Attraction V2 5+ R |
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Sandpaper Cloud V0 4 |
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Slinga Tree T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Take Me To The River S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Top-Rope Tough Guy T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Unforgiven S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Unknown T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Violets Slab TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Unknown. Liron Gokovski and I climbed it on 9/4/2013. Variant finish 5.8 by Sam Cannon, 7/17/2014 |
| Page Views: | 2,995 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Lenz on Sep 6, 2013 · Updates |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Description
This route looks unappealing from below, but we found it to have interesting and pleasant face and crack climbing with a distinctly wild finish. There is some dirt on the bottom face, and a little guano to the left, but you need not touch the guano.
Location
Immediately to the climbers right of "Cross Eyed and Painless," and "Little Creatures," and to the left of "Little Critters," is a large chimney/cave. Enter the cave and ascend the somewhat dirty face on the climbers right. A crack in it provides some protection with nuts. Reach a large flake which forms a roof, and climb the right side of it using crack technique and/or liebacking with face holds for the feet. Traverse left on top of the flake, deep into the chimney. Notice a small hole above you. Overhanging cracks and jugs provide a thrilling finish (crux) as you exit the chimney via the small hole. (The hole is visible in Sam Cannon's photo.) You will find a two bolt anchor immediately as you exit the hole. Rappel the route to descend. Admire the difficult routes to your left, and their first ascentionists.
Addendum 7/19/14: Sam Cannon climbed the West side of the chimney all the way to the top, and found easier climbing (5.7-5.8). His finish is probably the most logical one!
Addendum 7/19/14: Sam Cannon climbed the West side of the chimney all the way to the top, and found easier climbing (5.7-5.8). His finish is probably the most logical one!
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