Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Carruthers-Hauser

5.10+, Trad, 150 ft (45 m),  Avg: 3.4 from 10 votes
FA: Steve Carruthers
Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Reservoir Wall
Warning Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. DetailsDrop down

Description

The guide book description (C)2013 is pretty much dead on without the details. The start is broken and loose and also a little spooky with a difficult crux getting into the finger crack. After the crux the crack quickly opens up to perfect hands and big hands to the anchor.

Location

This route is on the far left end of Reservoir Wall, about 20 minutes past Excuse Station. There is no trail and the bush whacking sucks but hopefully that will improve with some more traffic. The crack is in lighter colored sandstone vs the typical wingate and is very solid. Some of the rock around the start is a little chossy but easy to avoid.

Protection

Doubles of .3 to #1, lots of #2's and #3's to the anchor. A couple #3 Friends work well to supplement the Camalots. 

9/2020 new anchors installed just left of original aluminum bolt. 

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

It looks like this.
[Hide Photo] It looks like this.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] steve, did you happen to also do the route between good excuse and CH? long big hands flake sort of thing?

thanks for adding this one, we were going to do it last spring but ran out of daylight. Sep 5, 2013
Steven Lucarelli
Grand Junction, CO
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] Walked by a couple other routes on the way to this one but didn't get on them. Will have to check them out next time. Sep 6, 2013
[Hide Comment] yeah, it think it was called S&P or something like that. really good route. pretty quiet over in that neck of the woods, once you get past excuse station... Sep 6, 2013
[Hide Comment] Great route!! Fun crux at the bottom in slightly iffy rock, might clean up with more traffic. Then tight hands for a bit, and then lots and lots of big hands to the top.

Once you're through the tight hands section, it's almost immediately #3 camalots clear to the anchor. I made do with 4 and a lot of bumping, but 5 or 6 would have been more fun.

I wish I had been equipped to add a bolt to the anchor. Instead I added a stopper and some webbing. So it's now an old decent-looking bolt, two stoppers, a bunch of tat and 2 carabiners.

There is sort of a trail forming, but the amount of vegetation on this part of the wall is really impressive. Still the bushwhack wasn't that bad. Apr 30, 2015
Anus Herder
Colona, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Cleaned a bit of stuff on the bottom, but boy oh boy hands/big hands splitta forever too good. Updated anchor would be awesome, will have to go back in the future! Oct 24, 2017
[Hide Comment] added bolts to the left of the original aluminum angle bolt they have carabiners on them for your convenience. This thing climbs great, I couldn't get my finger tips in for the step across move at beginning so I took the handcrack up to the finger crack(lots of choss but avoidable) and did a cool big move to a jug and then into the main crack.

Trail is still poor and yes it is far, but an excellent route. Sep 27, 2020