PRINT: Rock Climb Soaked in Sin, South Platte

Soaked in Sin

5.12d, Trad, 65 ft (20 m),

Avg: 3.4 from 21 votes
FA: Dave Montgomery, 10/12
Colorado > S Platte > Staunton SP > Staunton Rocks > Dungeon

Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Seasonal Falcon Closures in effect from March 15 - July 31.

- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall

Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.

Seasonal Falcon closures in effect from March 15 - July 31. - Lion's Head (not pictured). - Roughneck Area. There are no closures at Staunton Rocks.

Description

Soaked in Sin is both bouldery and sustained. The rock down low isn't pretty, but the climbing is fun and the rock gets better and better. Stick clip the first bolt, and crux your way past 4 bolts. Find a trick rest in the pod, clip one more bolt, then enjoy the steep fingers to thin hands crack to the chains.

This was the first steep route in the Dungeon and was originally done with 3 bolts. I added 2 more bolts a few years later as the gear in the pod never inspired confidence due to the fractured nature of the rock.

Location

This is between No Excuse and Intolerance Test near the lower part of the steep wall.

Protection

5 bolts (with permadraws), single rack from 0.4-#2 with doubles from .5-.75.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Past the crux and into the splitter.<br>
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Photo by Adam Bove.

Past the crux and into the splitter. Photo by Adam Bove.

Photo by Adam Bove

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Monty
Golden, CO

5.12d

I've seen a handful of people try to stay in-line or slightly right of bolts 1 and 2. While this works, it might bump the overall grade a bit. The climbing is a bit easier (and more fun!) if you climb up and left of bolt 1 to the roof, then undercling traverse right to bolt 2. This was the intended line, and how I've always climbed the route. There's no wrong way of course, some are just more in line with the posted grade :) Oct 3, 2017

Patrick Vernon
Grand Junction, CO

The bolt seemed fine, I tightened the nut, and it is good to go. I think some of the grade discrepancy on this route is due to the fact that you can go left or right at the first bolt with right being harder. Staying left the route felt like honest .12d. Aug 4, 2018