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> N America
> Canada
> British Columbia
> Squamish
> Shannon Falls
> Papoose
> Main Area, Frontside
Obsession
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.1 from 15
votes
Routes in Main Area, Frontside
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All in the Family T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Centerfold T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Duet for Two Hands T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Forgive My Trespasses T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hairpin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hanging Gardens T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Laid Back T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Limbo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Mercurial Crossing T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mercury Vapour T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mushroom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Obsession T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pamplemousse T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Papoose One T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pin Up T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Survival Enhancement T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | J. Howe, R. Barley, G Woloski |
| Page Views: | 1,998 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Andy Laakmann on Aug 9, 2013 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Really fun new addition to the Papoose. As good as any of the other routes there in my opinion.
All the traverses are well protected for leader and follower.
P1 - Start up Centrefold and at the first bolt start traversing left. Skip the intermediate anchor and go all the way to the nice ledge below the chimney/slot pitch of Papoose One. Two bolts plus a variety of gear. I placed a #3 on the way to the last bolt, but a #4 could be placed a bit higher. Some fun "walk the plank" moves! I ended up approaching the last bolt from below rather than foot traversing, but I'm not sure it was the easy way.
P2 - Great pitch of intriguing face climbing. All bolted until the final short crack to the Hairpin anchor. The moves across the traverse are really cool.
P3 - Easy 5.7 hand crack to the right, past the Papoose One belay, up to a new belay above the small roof.
P4 - Enjoyable and well protected face climbing all the to the top. After the last bolt head up and trend right joining the finishing moves of Centrefold. Gear is required getting to the first bolt and a green camalot can be placed in a final horizontal at the top to protect the second and take the sting off the final Centrefold 5.7 runout.
Topo and details available (2013) Quickdraw Publications
All the traverses are well protected for leader and follower.
P1 - Start up Centrefold and at the first bolt start traversing left. Skip the intermediate anchor and go all the way to the nice ledge below the chimney/slot pitch of Papoose One. Two bolts plus a variety of gear. I placed a #3 on the way to the last bolt, but a #4 could be placed a bit higher. Some fun "walk the plank" moves! I ended up approaching the last bolt from below rather than foot traversing, but I'm not sure it was the easy way.
P2 - Great pitch of intriguing face climbing. All bolted until the final short crack to the Hairpin anchor. The moves across the traverse are really cool.
P3 - Easy 5.7 hand crack to the right, past the Papoose One belay, up to a new belay above the small roof.
P4 - Enjoyable and well protected face climbing all the to the top. After the last bolt head up and trend right joining the finishing moves of Centrefold. Gear is required getting to the first bolt and a green camalot can be placed in a final horizontal at the top to protect the second and take the sting off the final Centrefold 5.7 runout.
Topo and details available (2013) Quickdraw Publications
Photos
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