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Horse Shoes & Hand Grenades
5.12b/c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 4 from 1
vote
Routes in North Carolina Wall
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Apricot Butter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Apricot Jam T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Barnacles & Bo Schwan T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Bed-wetter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Bumblebee Butress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Corner, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Eureka T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fire On The Mountain T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Highway to the Danger Zone (aka Rinky Dink Direct) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Horse Shoes & Hand Grenades T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Life is like a rubber rope T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lost In Time T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mixed Fruit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pansy Wall T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Rinky Dink T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Southeast arete (of the Camel) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Spectre Man T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tarantula T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Tightrope T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Nathan Brown, Wes Calkins, Daryl Macinnes |
| Page Views: | 2,209 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | nbrown on Jul 28, 2013 |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th)
Details
fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags
Details
The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
The yearly seasonal raptor closure has been lifted as of late June 2020.
Description
This is an excellent new route on the Apricot Buttress that finally came to fruition this year, probably 15 years after I first looked at it (and had forgotten about it). Thanks to Wes for bringing it back to my attention this summer. This rig is well worth the short hike down from the Chimneys.
This route can be easily approached by rapping directly down from the top with one 60 meter rope to the fixed nut anchor, and then one more to the bottom. The annoying bushes at the bottom actually are helpful to keep the ropes out of the wet gully and dry. The first rap is from a large rock horn located just over the edge near the large tree at the overlook - see picture.
P-1
Start in the obvious left diagonaling line near the bottom of the gully (right of spectre man). A bouldery start gains the moderate crack feature which leads to a couple bolts on the arete. A technical and powerful crux gives way to some overlapping features and a chance for a kneebar rest. Place a small cam/nut here. Continue up and right on the overhanging wall past 2 more bolts and a 5 foot roof. Crank this (protected by a fixed stopper at the lip) and continue up to a fixed nut anchor about 15 feet above.
P-2
Either climb the easy face out or lower.
Note: The starting gully is often wet. If so, plan on stacking and hanging the rope to keep it up and out of the water and you'll be good to go. Also, we placed a couple of rocks on the starting ledge that serve as a dry place to start.
This route can be easily approached by rapping directly down from the top with one 60 meter rope to the fixed nut anchor, and then one more to the bottom. The annoying bushes at the bottom actually are helpful to keep the ropes out of the wet gully and dry. The first rap is from a large rock horn located just over the edge near the large tree at the overlook - see picture.
P-1
Start in the obvious left diagonaling line near the bottom of the gully (right of spectre man). A bouldery start gains the moderate crack feature which leads to a couple bolts on the arete. A technical and powerful crux gives way to some overlapping features and a chance for a kneebar rest. Place a small cam/nut here. Continue up and right on the overhanging wall past 2 more bolts and a 5 foot roof. Crank this (protected by a fixed stopper at the lip) and continue up to a fixed nut anchor about 15 feet above.
P-2
Either climb the easy face out or lower.
Note: The starting gully is often wet. If so, plan on stacking and hanging the rope to keep it up and out of the water and you'll be good to go. Also, we placed a couple of rocks on the starting ledge that serve as a dry place to start.
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