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Griffin's Romp and Roll
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British
Avg: 1.6 from 7
votes
Routes in Inner Outlet
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Amuse Bouche T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Beau Visage T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Big E's Two Project T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Bronchial Distress T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Cat Daddy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Cold Feat T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Conn Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Gill Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Griffin's Romp and Roll T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hardrocker T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Honey, I Shrunk My Nads T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Inner Outlet Gill Variation T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Jungle Fever T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Kamps Crack (Classic Crack) T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Katey's Route T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lander Turkey Shoot S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Mac Daddy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Mac Daddy Direct T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Mantucky Cold Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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No need to be Chicken S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Other Trucker Favorites T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Out of the Outlet into the Oven T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Retable Route T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rockin' Harder S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Rustlers, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Slippery When Wet T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Taste the Bun T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Two Year Plan T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wiessner Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,527 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Mark Orsag on Jul 20, 2013 |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
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Description
The true first ascent of this route is apparently lost to time. Brent Kertzman and Paul Muehl climbed it in 1982 and found evidence of a yet earlier ascent. Cheyenne Caffey and Mark Orsag placed the anchors, cleaned the route, and added a bolt in 2013. This route is an oddly un-Needles-like trad jugbash. The route starts on a right-trending slab/ramp. At the top of the slab/ramp, it continues to the right in an ascending traverse through a series of large, wildly-shaped wind-eroded holds. It circles below and around an obvious pillar half to two-thirds of the way up. It then climbs up and behind (to the right) of the pillar. Step back left onto the top of the pillar. Clip a single bolt that protects a face move on a bulging slab, and jog up and left to the two-bolt anchor and a generous belay ledge. Sylvan Lake is visible from the top. Good beginner trad lead, though it is a touch physical for an easy climb.
Location
From the Sylvan Lake parking lot, follow the trail around the lake and to the left. Go through the tunnel and bear left toward the bridge/boardwalk on Sunday Gulch Trail. Stop at the beginning of the bridge and head up into the gulley directly right/north of you. A 3rd class scramble gets you into the gully. The ramp and a number of good belay stances should be obvious. Probably best belayed by the leader from above. Rap with 60m rope gets you down easily.
Protection
Good cam placements and opportunities to sling the large features almost all the way through. The only marginal placement is atop the pillar, and the single bolt helps there. G-rated climb. Bring at least two slings or runners. Otherwise, a standard rack should suffice. An additional cam can be set in a crack above the bolt to protect the 2nd against a potentially nasty pendulum fall if the 5.6 face move is blown after the bolt is cleaned.
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