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Dead Reckoning (aka the Terry-Michaels route)

5.12a, Trad, Sport, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 4 from 8 votes
FA: Terry Lien, Tom Michaels
Washington > Central-W Casca… > Skykomish Valley > Index > Cheeks > (1) Upper Cheeks > (c) The Beach

Description

Amazing.
Steep.
Clean and FUN.

P1 is 11b/c

P2 is 11d

Protection

small to #2
#3 optional for P2

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

P2 (photo cred Tom Ramier)
[Hide Photo] P2 (photo cred Tom Ramier)
Terry Lien testing a prototype GriGri
[Hide Photo] Terry Lien testing a prototype GriGri
end of P2 (photo cred Tom Ramier)
[Hide Photo] end of P2 (photo cred Tom Ramier)
Tom Michael belaying Terry Lien on the second pitch
[Hide Photo] Tom Michael belaying Terry Lien on the second pitch
Terry Lien getting ready to send on the Terry Michael's route
[Hide Photo] Terry Lien getting ready to send on the Terry Michael's route
Terry Lien as a child
[Hide Photo] Terry Lien as a child
More Tom Michael
[Hide Photo] More Tom Michael
Is he old enough to have a driver's license?????????
[Hide Photo] Is he old enough to have a driver's license?????????

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Incredibly good climbing, and some of the steepest at Index! Kudos to Tom on the hard work. Jul 24, 2013
braddean Lignoski
Seattle
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] One of the best routes I've ever been on. Steep, varied with wild, unique feautes. Solid rock in one of the best positions around. I don't even mind that Tom stole my bolt hangers to make it happen!

--Brad Jul 30, 2013
[Hide Comment] Amazing climbing on perfect rock!! For p1, a single set of cams from red C3 to .75 C4 works well (maybe bring 2x .5). I haven't tried p2 yet, but it looks even better than p1... Aug 20, 2013
Kerwin Loukusa
Leavenworth, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Can this be rappelled from the top of P2 with a 70 back to the beach ledge? Rappelling from the top of P1 got pretty close to the edge and P2 looked even more overhanging. Mar 9, 2015
Derek Pearson
Snohomish, WA
[Hide Comment] Kerwinl, go to the beach photos and look at "index steep" photo . That should answer your question . Lol. I think you need two ropes . Mar 9, 2015
Kerwin Loukusa
Leavenworth, WA
 
[Hide Comment] That photo is very informing, with two ropes would have the length, but might be off the edge. Also hard to tell exactly which route is being rappelled.

I did notice a fixed nut on p2 with a carabiner on it, one may be able to clip into that on rappel and make it back to the p1 anchor, or simply clip the chains and lower back down, using a quickdraw attached to the other side of the rope to avoid swinging out. I will go back and check it out for sure. Mar 10, 2015
[Hide Comment] Start R of a chain anchor (currently the right-most anchor on the Beach) in a short LFC, then angle L to finish on prow. I couldn't do all the moves on P1 (time to train pistol-squats), but thought it was brilliant nonetheless. Jul 13, 2018