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Southern Rock Opera

5.11d, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 3.9 from 8 votes
FA: Garret Kemper 2003
Idaho > S Idaho > Castle Rocks > Castle Rocks > Hostess Gully - W Cor…
Warning Access Issue: (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park and US Forest Sevice lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING. US Forest Service Lands closed to new route developement. (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP DetailsDrop down

Description

An amazing splitter crack on the upper headwall, hard to miss walking up.

Climb the crack, build and anchor then rap a route in the hostess gully or walk off and downclimb into the Crack House.

Location

This is the obvious right to left arching crack that splits the upper headwall above Patina Atoll.
3rd classing up the gully below Numbshall and El Castleton seems a good way to approach.

Protection

Finger sized pieces are important blue tcu size to .5 camalot.
Anchor could be bigger pieces 3 or 4 camalot, or nuts and medium cams in a spot higher with more rope drag.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

At the base
[Hide Photo] At the base
Coming up Southern Rock Opera, 5.11d.  The amount of gear I placed makes this line look more like Frankenstein's stitching than a crack.
[Hide Photo] Coming up Southern Rock Opera, 5.11d. The amount of gear I placed makes this line look more like Frankenstein's stitching than a crack.
Southern Rock Opera from the anchors of Red Rib.
[Hide Photo] Southern Rock Opera from the anchors of Red Rib.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Charlie S
NV
 
[Hide Comment] A long approach and descent bookend this incredible climb. Heavy on the #0.3s! The climb also take nuts but your second will hate you for it.

Strenuous and sustained with varying crack shapes. Read: a myriad of techniques are required to make the ascent and it's not over until you make the final step on to the ledge.

The first 10-15' are inviting and protect well to get you out of ledge fall zone.

Definitely worth the effort but save it for a cooler day. Apr 19, 2015