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Routes in Mt. Maude
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Entiat Ice Fall AI2-3 Steep Snow PG13 |
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North Face AI2 Steep Snow |
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| Type: | Ice, Snow, Alpine, 1750 ft (530 m), Grade III |
| FA: | Fred Beckey, Don Gordon, John Rupley, Herb Staley |
| Page Views: | 2,522 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Aaron Nash on Jul 6, 2013 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Description
From camp at Leroy Creek Basin, ascend to the col between Seven Finger Jack and Maude. From the col, traverse over several shoulders until you're able to descend to the western edge of the South Entiat Glacier at 7300ft.
Ascend 35-45 degree snow up the lower part of the route staying in between two prominent rock buttresses. Continue ascending the face as it steepens up to 65 degrees towards the top. Scramble the final few feet to the summit.
Beware of a large cornice that forms on the summit ridge. This cornice can make climbing the right side of the route dangerous if it hasn't fallen yet.
Descent:
Standard south-southwest ridge back to Leroy Creek Basin
Ascend 35-45 degree snow up the lower part of the route staying in between two prominent rock buttresses. Continue ascending the face as it steepens up to 65 degrees towards the top. Scramble the final few feet to the summit.
Beware of a large cornice that forms on the summit ridge. This cornice can make climbing the right side of the route dangerous if it hasn't fallen yet.
Descent:
Standard south-southwest ridge back to Leroy Creek Basin
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