Methow Inspiration Route
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Type: | Sport, 5 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Arian Manchego, Eric Hirst et al. (1996) |
Page Views: | 19,665 total · 136/month |
Shared By: | armasanea on Jun 17, 2013 · Updates |
Admins: | applewood, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
The Methow Valley Climbers, a chapter of the Washington Climbers Coalition, respectfully asks visiting climbers to NOT camp or sleep in your vehicles anywhere along the paved section of Lost River Road or in the Fun Rock parking lot ... Please use a blue bag when on route and take all of your trash home. We thank you for taking responsibility during your visit to help keep climbers in good relations with the local community. Welcome to the valley and safe climbing.
From the USFS:
When planning your visit to the Methow Valley, please choose an appropriate campsite and use established toilets, or pack it out in areas without toilets. The roadside pullouts below the Goat Wall and Gate Creek are NOT considered sustainable places to camp due to proximity to the Methow River and lack of toilets.
Please see the uploaded map "Camping for Climbers" for campgrounds ($8-12 per night) and low-impact FREE dispersed areas with toilets within a few miles of your favorite crag. Free sites include: Goat Creek and Yellowjacket SnoParks (April-October only), and dispersed sites west of Monument Creek Trailhead.
Description
*This route received a wonderful bolt and anchor refresh this Fall (2022) making a stellar route even more safe and fun.* Thank you Methow Valley Climbers WCC Chapter, Washington Anchor Replacement Project, and American Safe Climbing Association.
Approach by a trail 2.9 miles up from the Mazama Store, at the pullout with the Curvy Road and 45mph limit signs. The trail starts immediately behind this sign, and a wooden climbing register kiosk should be mostly visible from the road. Follow the trail up to the treeline, then the rock cairns throughout the scree/talus. As you get higher up, follow the right trending path into scree at a vague fork. The left, better marked trail continues to Sisyphus and Flyboys. The route starts at the toe of Buffalo Point Buttress near a prominent fir tree on a huge ledge at the bottom of the route. This route was established for climbers with a better lead head.
Raptors nest on the Diamond point buttress above. May-July. When you top Pitch-7 out please do not continue higher than the top anchor, talk, walk around, or attempt to walk off during Spring nesting season; leave as soon as possible. The biologist asks: "If the raptor notices you, and changes their behavior in any way, please start your descent"
Thanks! MVClimbers
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