Sol Solet

The bottom 5 pitches of Sol Solet are well protected and have some exceptionally fun climbing at a moderate grade (5.6). The views are spectacular, the exposure is life affirming and the opportunity to cover a vast expanse of vertical ground rapidly makes this route a must do. The downside is that the last two pitches of moderate climbing are unprotected but potentially deadly. It may be possible to move over to the final pitches of Bego-Miguel-Kush in order to arrive at the summit in a less life threatening manner.

P1: Clip the first bolt and move up and left onto the black streak of rock. Follow the bolts upward and to the left of the weakness. This pitch contains 30 meters of highly enjoyable and thoughtful 5.5 and 5.6 climbing. Three bolt anchor with rap rings.

P2: This pitch is easily linked with P1. The difficulty eases somewhat (20 meters of 5.5). The anchor does not include rap rings (confirmed by 2023 comment, see COMMENTs) but there is an adjacent anchor with rings 10 meters to your left (or bring some cord) which marks the end of P1 of Bego-Miguel-Kush and Escabroni Escapullini.

P3: Another lovely 30 meters of well protected pocket and knob pulling which ends in a 3 bolt anchor with rap rings just to the right of a ledge with a juniper and 3 scary blocks. (5.5)

P4: Move directly right passing a bolt which was useful when the anchor was 6 feet lower than it currently is. Move up through a notch between bushes and out onto the face located to the right of a small left facing open book. Follow bolts until they disappear. Look to your left to find a three bolt anchor without rap rings at a good stance. 25 meters (5.5-5.6)

P5: Follow bolts up and left. Step up onto a ledge and look chest height to find a bolt which is otherwise hard to spot. Now step up and move right to clip the last bolt on this pitch. You now have several options. Continue upward and onward without protection (this becomes a walk after 15 meters more before you arrive at the last head wall) or move right to the three bolt anchor and call it a day (I think it would also be possible to traverse over to join one of the other routes at this point). 25 meters of 5.4 or 25 meters of 5.4 and 15 meters of 4th class.

(We bailed at this point rather than free soloing the last bit)

P5: Climb the last bit on 5.3 terrain with bushes and whatever trad placements you can find until you reach two eye bolts in a rock.

P6: Continue on easy terrain to the final bolted anchor of Bego-Miguel-Kush.

Descent: According to the book it is possible to rappel 10 meters off the back of Miranda de Can Jorba and join the hazardous via ferrata. We opted to rappel the route.