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Routes in Lower Peanuts
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Air Guitar T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Aspenleaf Dihedral T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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B.A.T.E. Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Black Pearl S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Blows Against the Empire T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Chaucer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cornered, straight up variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Criller T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Dihedral T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Direct Start to Your Basic Layback T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Do or Do Not T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Double Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Easy Off T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Empire Strikes Back, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
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Evangelium Vitae (The Gospel of Life) T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Faith, Hope, and Charity T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Fickle Finger of Eight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Forbidden Planet S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Home Free T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Jackson Browne (aka Fluid Power) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Just Another Girl's Climb T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Let's Jet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Narrow Gate, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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No Visible Means of Support T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Nova (aka Jawa?) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Off The Cuff T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X |
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Peanuts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Pretender, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Rapa Nui (Easter Island) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R |
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Right Escape T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Sacred and the Profane, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Scorpions T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Shield, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Sickle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Star Track T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Strolling T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Tracer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Trouble And Strife T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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West Crack (aka Star Wars) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Whiskey Gala T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Wired T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Young, Blonde, and Easy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Your Basic Lieback T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | M. Schlauch, C. Ruckgaber, E. Johnson. 2001 |
| Page Views: | 864 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Wayne Crill on Jun 6, 2013 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This is a worthwhile and enjoyable climb with interesting and varied climbing and a little spice.
Climb the weakness down low for 40' to access a ledge system with some tottering choss below the obvious, left-facing flake. Negotiate through the choss past flakes and back to good rock via cracks to fun laybacking up the flake. At the top of the flake, pull the overlap up and right following a finger crack. This is exciting exposed climbing that is somewhat sustained and tricky to protect at first. It is jalapeño spicy, maybe more PG than PG-13? Fun continually interesting climbing up and right takes you to the anchors on Peanuts. There is quite a bit of lichen, since this is not well-trodden, but it is well worthwhile and recommended if you are in the area and/or enjoy the road less traveled.
Climb the weakness down low for 40' to access a ledge system with some tottering choss below the obvious, left-facing flake. Negotiate through the choss past flakes and back to good rock via cracks to fun laybacking up the flake. At the top of the flake, pull the overlap up and right following a finger crack. This is exciting exposed climbing that is somewhat sustained and tricky to protect at first. It is jalapeño spicy, maybe more PG than PG-13? Fun continually interesting climbing up and right takes you to the anchors on Peanuts. There is quite a bit of lichen, since this is not well-trodden, but it is well worthwhile and recommended if you are in the area and/or enjoy the road less traveled.
Location
This route is a variation to Left Side (10 R), which climbs the obvious flake forming a left-facing corner with a wide slot, right of The Shield. Atop the flake where Left Side traverses left, surmount the overlap via a finger crack and move up and left across the face to the anchors on Peanuts.
Photos
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