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Washington
> Northwest Region
> Hwy 20 & N Casc…
> N Cascades
> Eldorado Peak
> Main Peak
East Ridge
Easy Snow
Avg: 3.4 from 142
votes
Routes in Main Peak
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Northwest Ice Couloir AI2 Steep Snow |
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East Ridge Easy Snow |
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Northeast Face Mod. Snow |
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South Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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West Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Mod. Snow |
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North Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Steep Snow |
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Tepeh Towers T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c Easy Snow |
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Klawatti Peak SW Buttress T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Easy Snow |
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Austera Peak T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Easy Snow |
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| Type: | Snow, Alpine, Grade II |
| FA: | D. Blair, N. Grigg, A. Wilson, A. Winder - August 1933 |
| Page Views: | 10,999 total · 75/month |
| Shared By: | Jeff Hebert on May 7, 2013 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Description
This is a popular, technically easy climb with a classic finish on an exposed summit ridge. The summit view and knife-edge top are exquisite.
Begin at the trailhead 20 miles down Cascade River Road, backtracking a few hundred feet until reaching a large, downed tree across the stream. Cross a series of logs and follow the faint trail through boulders to steeper terrain. Follow the trail to a talus field at about 4,000 feet. Head to the top of the talus field below short cliffs and head right toward another, larger talus field (snow in early season). Continue up into an open basin at 5,400 feet and head for the left ridge with a crossing at 6,000 feet and a quick descent down a 3rd class gully to the Roush Creek basin.
Head up the basin towards Eldorado Glacier, gain the glacier, and climb to where it crests over at 7,500 feet. From here, the East Ridge should be obvious. Gain the ridge and ride it to the top.
Begin at the trailhead 20 miles down Cascade River Road, backtracking a few hundred feet until reaching a large, downed tree across the stream. Cross a series of logs and follow the faint trail through boulders to steeper terrain. Follow the trail to a talus field at about 4,000 feet. Head to the top of the talus field below short cliffs and head right toward another, larger talus field (snow in early season). Continue up into an open basin at 5,400 feet and head for the left ridge with a crossing at 6,000 feet and a quick descent down a 3rd class gully to the Roush Creek basin.
Head up the basin towards Eldorado Glacier, gain the glacier, and climb to where it crests over at 7,500 feet. From here, the East Ridge should be obvious. Gain the ridge and ride it to the top.
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