The Big Deal
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3.3 from 220 votes
Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | Rick Ziegler/Austin Archer |
Page Views: | 23,496 total · 166/month |
Shared By: | Rick Ziegler on Apr 29, 2013 · Updates |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
The Big Deal is 2/3 crack climbing and 1/3 slab and face features that connect the crack systems left of "PBR Streetgang." Clean, well protected and fun.
Location
APPROACH: Follow directions for PSOM Pinnacle. Continue on approach trail until at base on The High Life. The High Life starts 100 feet left of PBR Streetgang in a right trending flake, 5.8 (35m).
Description
P1 -From 2 bolt anchor atop The High Life, follow a slabby, right trending crack for 40 meters. Where crack peters out, step left into seams protected with small to med nuts lead to 2 bolt anchor. 5.7. Gear: Nuts, doubles of small to med cams, single #1-#4 Camalot.
P2- Can be broken into 2 shorter pitches or 1, 60 m pitch. From the belay stem up seams (5.8, gear and a bolt). Step right to a bolted slab move, then up left facing flake, pull over this to the right to a bolt and optional 2 bolt anchor. Move up easy but hollow flakes to a left facing corner that climbs over 2 roofs to 2 bolt anchor on left. 5.8, gear to 3.
P3- Move right into low angle fist crack, to a ledge. Follow left arching flake protected by small cams. Near top of arch step right and follow 4 bolts (5.9) to left leaning lieback protected by gear to 2 bolt anchor. 20 m.
Rappel route with 1 70m rope or 2 60m. The fourth rappel uses a 2 bolt anchor 30m below the P1 anchor.
25 Comments