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God of Thunder, Pitch 2
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.7 from 11
votes
Routes in Dear John Buttress
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Brother of John T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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God of Plunder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rehab T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hushed Passage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tag Team T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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God of Thunder (5.9 corner variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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God of Thunder (.10c Variation) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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God of Thunder (5.11b Variation) T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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God of Thunder, Pitch 2 T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fight the Power T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Stone Cold Power T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Stony Highway T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Drug Crazed T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Stony End T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Dario Gambetta and Tony Yaniro, 1978 |
| Page Views: | 3,609 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Ben J. on Apr 24, 2013 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Climb one of the 3 God of Thunder first pitch variations. Clip the chains and continue into the route's second half.
Fun, mostly hand-sized climbing takes you to a jug immediately below the first roof. Fairly straightforward movement and deep jams can be used to surmount this roof. About 10 feet of moderate offwidth brings you to a pair of old bolts and the second roof, which to me seemed considerably more difficult and puzzling than the first. A rail buried deep within the roof crack may help a little or a lot.
Fun, mostly hand-sized climbing takes you to a jug immediately below the first roof. Fairly straightforward movement and deep jams can be used to surmount this roof. About 10 feet of moderate offwidth brings you to a pair of old bolts and the second roof, which to me seemed considerably more difficult and puzzling than the first. A rail buried deep within the roof crack may help a little or a lot.
Location
Once you've arrived at the base of Dear John, look up. You can't miss these wide roof cracks.
We were able to easily reach the ground and lower off with a 70. Pretty sure that a 60 would also be sufficient.
We were able to easily reach the ground and lower off with a 70. Pretty sure that a 60 would also be sufficient.
Protection
We had two new #4 camalots and an old #5. The 4's worked well for the first roof and the OW leading to the second roof. The old 5 was a bit overcammed and difficult to retrieve from the second roof, but a new 4 was close to tipped out... an old #4 or new #5 would probably be best to protect the second roof. Chain anchors are located just above the second roof.
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