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> E Yosemite Fall…
> A. Swan Slab
Unknown Arete
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British PG13
Avg: 1.9 from 9 votes
Type: | Trad, TR, 200 ft (61 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 2,113 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | TacoDelRio on Apr 22, 2013 |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
This fun line climbs up the arete left of Bay Tree Crack. When I climbed it, I started up Swan Slab Chimney (5.5) to Swan Slab Squeeze (5.7). At the top of Squeeze, you can get on the arete. The first move is a couple of somewhat tricky face moves. After that, the rest is pretty easy (5.7ish) and gets much easier as the route goes up.
Please note that the PG13 rating is for leading on the old bolts.
Please note that the PG13 rating is for leading on the old bolts.
Location
As noted in the description, this route takes the arete left of Bay Tree Crack. Walk off is the same as Bay Tree, or rapp down to the ledge atop Chimney/Oak Tree Flake/Grant's. Easy downclimb down the chimney.
The Bay Tree Crack walk off involves a 5.5 downclimb which is tricky at first.
The Bay Tree Crack walk off involves a 5.5 downclimb which is tricky at first.
Protection
Some wide cams (squeeze chimney) for Swan Slab Squeeze, then a handful of draws for the arete. Honestly better to do this as a TR solo with a 70m. The bolts up top are ancient 1/4 rusted dudes, and special wide pro for the Squeeze would rather be overkill.
Gear anchor up top, supplemented by one old bolt/hanger combo atop Bay Tree Crack.
EDIT: old bolts have been replaced, and a new two bolt anchor is at the top.
Gear anchor up top, supplemented by one old bolt/hanger combo atop Bay Tree Crack.
EDIT: old bolts have been replaced, and a new two bolt anchor is at the top.
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