PRINT: Rock Climb Rebuffat's Arete, Eldorado Canyon State Park

Rebuffat's Arete

5.7, Trad, 190 ft (58 m),

Avg: 3.7 from 617 votes
FA: Joe O'Laughlin, Steve Turner, 1968
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Lumpe to…

Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.

Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.

The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.

For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

This is most popularly done as a variation to the fifth pitch of Rewritten. From the dead tree belay of Rewritten, avoid the chossy gully and head straight out right on to the edge of the arete. There is more protection than would first appear. Have fun peeking over the edge and head right up to the top. Then carefully downclimb 5-10 feet to the notch. It is 80'.

It can also be done from lower on Rewritten, right after the hand traverse and finger crack on pitch 4. Instead of moving left, head straight up the arete. It is 190', PG-13.

It can also be accessed from Tower Corner Exit. Reach the arete by moving left up a ramp system, then follow to the top as above. It is 130'.

Protection

Standard Eldorado rack.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

A 60m rope can link the bottom of the arete (the top of Rewritten, P4) to the last belay at the top of the ridge.

AS mounting the arete after a wild ride.

Getting down from the top of Green Spur, Redgarden Wall, Eldorado Canyon State Park.

Looking down the arete. The top of Rewritten's 4th pitch (dead tree belay) is visible here.

Unknown climber hanging out near the top of Rebuffat's, 11-9-13.

Rewritten Variation awesomeness!!!

Looking up at the spectacular arete

Finishing up Rewritten via Rebuffat's Arete on a magnificent winter day. The descent was waist-deep postholing, but the rock was dry, and the views were spectacular!

John Holly taking the Arete in true style!

Gear near the top of the arete.

Look ma, no hands!

John Holly… look at that grin!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Clint Locks
Boulder

Not sure this pitch deserves its own page. It really is just a variation to Rewritten's pitch 5, albeit the preferred one. If we start adding a page to MP for every variation to every climb in Eldo (and beyond), I'm pretty sure the servers will crash and burn in a brilliant fireball of 1s and 0s. Apr 8, 2014

William Thiry
Las Vegas

5.7

Simply brilliant pitch. Oct 4, 2014

Jeff Welch
Dolores, CO

A good pitch, but agree that it is a variation on an existing route and shouldn't be listed as its own page. Aug 11, 2015

Mike Wilkinson
Lexington, KY

Had a 0.4 walk from rope drag about halfway up the arete, and my partner was unable to retrieve it. If someone with more skill or patience is able to snag it, shoot me a PM. Would be happy to pay for it to get shipped and will get you some beer for your trouble! Jul 5, 2017

MAKB
Denver, CO.

Where does the name come from? Aug 28, 2017

Nick Tripp
San Diego, CA

This was perhaps the MOST SPECTACULAR moderate pitch I've ever done: 10/10 stars!

For what it's worth, I was able to place a big nut on the last 1/3 of the arete that would have been bomber regardless of which side of the arete I could have whipped over. My partner did not appreciate it though! :) Mar 26, 2018

Bogdan Petre
West Lebanon, NH

5.7

The climbing was fine, but the route itself felt very contrived. You're never more than several feet above the 4th (3rd?) Class gully that makes up the 5th pitch of standard Rewritten as it's documented in Steve Levin's book. Oct 4, 2018

Branty
Boulder, CO

This pitch is like a carnival ride! It's so much fun! Apr 8, 2019

Matt Hagny

5.5

For all the hype, I was underwhelmed. Nice exposure, but the moves were a bit too easy. For a more interesting knife arete, I prefer the one to the left of the dead tree and gully. There's a single bolt protecting slab moves (5.9) to gain the arete. I've not been able to figure out what it's called. Fun, technical moves on the arete, with some spice. Aug 18, 2019

Gregger Man
Broomfield, CO

Matt - that's P2 of Green Hornet. Aug 18, 2019

Kaz Hatfield
Firestone, CO

5.7+

A real treat to add to the bag. Make sure you find your way to the right side of the arete, and take it all in. Jun 23, 2023

Mark Ishmael
Lexington, KY

I'm assuming the arete is named for Gaston Rébuffat. Sep 15, 2024