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Squeeze Play

5.9 A3, Aid, 1700 ft (515 m), 18 pitches, Grade VI,  Avg: 3.1 from 10 votes
FA: Corbett, Edmondson, Albuschkat. 1982
California > Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Valley N Side > B. El Capitan > 2. Southwest Face
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Description

Situated on El Cap's West Buttress, this seldom traveled route is a fun, shorter alternative to busy trade routes. Moderate and easy climbing, good rock, replaced bolts (thank you!) and some good ledges up higher make it a good route for those who want to go faster or take their time.

Squeeze Play starts on Lost World, a climb established by Anderson, Folsom, and Warburton in 1975. Lurking Fear, the more popular, crowded, and easier climb is located immediately to the left of Squeeze Play. It was established the year after Lost World, 1976.

The climb starts on lower angle high quality rock. Nice free and aid crack systems take you to a broad slab and rivets left towards a point at the base of two huge dihedral/crack systems. The crack straight up from this belay is Lost World, the rivet ladder leading to the left dihedral is Squeeze Play. Once in the dihedral, the climbing is really fun and nicely shaded in the afternoon. At about 700 feet above the deck the climbing gets progressively harder and cruxes out at pitch 8, beaks and some heads. Climbing pitches 9-11 is surprisingly straightforward and takes you to a sweet ledge right underneath the West Buttress route traverse. The West Buttress Route is one of El Capitan's oldest routes - put up by Kor and Roper in '63. This traverse goes quickly and safely. Enjoy the location. The rest gets traveled often by Lurking Fear climbers.

This a good route to climb in a push because if too wiped it is possible to sleep on p11, or the nice ledge three pitches higher, or even Thanksgiving Ledge. Non-speed ascents should plan 2-3 nights on the wall plus approach/descent. This route's crux is about as hard as the crux on Never Never Land but has much easier climbing overall.

First One Day Ascent: Snyder, Rodatz 23:44 (rocknclimb.com)

Protection

Standard bigwall cam rack including 2x #6 Camalot and offsets
Stoppers, microstoppers, and offsets
10 Peckers mostly #2 and #3
Basic pin rack
12 heads, asst.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jens halfway through leading pitch 5
[Hide Photo] Jens halfway through leading pitch 5
Jack Powers contemplating life with a Modelo in hand!
[Hide Photo] Jack Powers contemplating life with a Modelo in hand!
Chilling at Pitch 5 on the third morning!
[Hide Photo] Chilling at Pitch 5 on the third morning!
Looking back over Pitch 3 from the anchors.
[Hide Photo] Looking back over Pitch 3 from the anchors.
Looking back over Pitch 2 from the anchors
[Hide Photo] Looking back over Pitch 2 from the anchors

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Hayden robinson
Curry village, Yose
 
[Hide Comment] I just climbed it and it’s got minimal scaring. A very fresh feel. It gets its name from the chimney features that you aid back into. Anouther unique characteristic is it has a flaring wonky flake thing where the crack widens in the chimney systems of the corners a flake overlaps So your caming on very particularly flaring pieces. It’s a particularly time intensive route for the relative security of its placement. The anus is a very gymnastic lead. The sixes where critical. Take your time, enjoy the small ledges for your portaledge Bivys. It gets solidly steeper than the fear and has clear climbing than lost worlds mid pitches Apr 29, 2019
Eric Santos
Reno
  5.8 C3-4
[Hide Comment] Route goes clean at C3. “Test your mettle” pitch was pretty engaging and took liberal cam hooking and two lobed c3s to go clean.

Note: there was a bat hook hole that looked freshly drilled on the lower C3 cam hook pitch (pitch 3). This can be skipped by using two cam hooks until a yellow totem and green c4 can be placed. Does anyone have any info of when this was chipped? May 8, 2022