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> Totem-Proto Area
Overcoming Inertia
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m) |
FA: | David Sampson and Arjun Heimsath |
Page Views: | 1,568 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | arjunmh on Apr 8, 2013 |
Admins: | Zach Levy, Sierra Blair, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Climbing at The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area are private property, and now requires that you register in order to gain legal access. This is an easy process. You can do this at: queencreekclimbing.com/.
This is a one-time and free process so once you are registered you are good to go.
You can read more about this process and the announcement at the Queen Creek Coalition website – theqcc.com or the Queen Creek Coalition’s Facebook page – facebook.com/Queen-Creek-Co…
This is a one-time and free process so once you are registered you are good to go.
You can read more about this process and the announcement at the Queen Creek Coalition website – theqcc.com or the Queen Creek Coalition’s Facebook page – facebook.com/Queen-Creek-Co…
Description
Start up the prominent arete leading up the northeast side of Proto Pipe. There are two bolts down relatively low, just above the easy to get to ledge, to help you locate the climb and protect the initial stretch of the arete. Stay on the crest of the arete and climb through tricky gear and some slight runout with moderate climbing to get to a small nut protected committing bulge/roof move. This is the crux. You've got good gear at your feet and if you've got the right size nut it should be bomber. Getting there is not for the timid though as it's a bit runout on slightly crunchy rock above the last bolt. Once above the crux it's mellower climbing with ample protection, but use your long slings to avoid rope drag as it's a long way to the top. The anchor will become visible once you go through the last wide crack chimney system.
Two bolt anchor with quick links and chain links in place. Single rope rap west to the base of the Proto Pipe climb start. You can also traverse around the top of this spire to get onto the anchors for Proto Pipe.
Two bolt anchor with quick links and chain links in place. Single rope rap west to the base of the Proto Pipe climb start. You can also traverse around the top of this spire to get onto the anchors for Proto Pipe.
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