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Routes in Above the Waves
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BA Insanity T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cat's Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Climax T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Cold Sushi T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cunning Linguist T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Dangerous Games T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Doublethink T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fillet Show T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gold Club T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gold Member T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Golden Shower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Goldline T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Happy Endings T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lap Dance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Let's Do The Trad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lost Horizon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Love You Long Time T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Ocean's Eleven T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Orange Juice S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pearl Necklace T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Psycho Killer T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Rastafarian Seabirds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Snake Alley T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tanz en Den Mai T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Tofu Tower T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 135 ft (41 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 25.1061, 121.92274 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,496 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Nate Ball on Mar 18, 2013 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball |
Description
This route is described as three separate pitches in Matt's book - Prelude, Climax, Come Again. However, it can easily be done as two.
Start up the left side of Tofu Tower on big holds. Continue up the slab to a ledge with a bolted anchor. Clip a bolt and continue up on steepening stone to a horizontal below a blank face. Step left here and pull up and around the roof. Layback along a flake to another roof. Crux it out onto the face to the right with a wide selection of marginal holds. Continue up the slab using the dihedral and smearing. Belay at a narrow grassy ledge on two glue-in bolts.
There is a bit of a runout to the first placement of the 2nd pitch. Pull through long reaches to deep horizontals, trending right, and working those feet on tiny features. Topout at a great ledge with a gorgeous view and a bit of loose rock. Rappel twice with 60m rope or three times with 50m.
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