PRINT: Rock Climb Return From the Great Mormon Experience, Central Arizona

Return From the Great Mormon Experience

5.12b, Sport, 75 ft (23 m),

Avg: 3.4 from 20 votes
FA: Chad Cooper
Arizona > Central Arizona > Queen Creek Canyon > Pond

Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Climbing at The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area are private property, and now requires that you register in order to gain legal access. This is an easy process. You can do this at: queencreekclimbing.com/.
This is a one-time and free process so once you are registered you are good to go.

You can read more about this process and the announcement at the Queen Creek Coalition website – theqcc.com or the Queen Creek Coalition’s Facebook page – facebook.com/Queen-Creek-Co…

Description

One of the better routes at the Pond!

Start by stemming over to the first bolt, then proceed up through a few increasingly difficult sections to the technical crux deadpoint. Get a good shake and blast up the route's second half, which is comprised of fun jugs on solid red rock.

There is still a bit of loose rock on the arete at the bottom near the 3rd and 4th bolts that should probably be cleaned off, since it is right above the belayer.

It is possible to set up a TR on this climb-- there's a bolt a few feet above the anchors to which one can clip a long runner so that you can safely climb down to the anchor hooks.

Location

The prominent slightly overhanging long face at the lower pond, just to the left of a gully. #80 in the Karabin guide.

Protection

10 quickdraws, hooks at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Return From the Great Mormon Experience

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Anthony Hugo Almanza
Phoenix, AZ

5.12b

One of my favorite routes to date at the pond. It has everything from edging,pinches, and body opposition in one pitch. It seems to be a overlooked gem for the area. Check it out and ride the lightning! Dec 4, 2014

Tim Heid
AZ

5.12b

Woah-- the movement on this climb is seriously amazing. Based on movement, I'd call it my favorite route at the Pond.

The only detractor is how close the other pillar is through the crux. I had to do a long deadpoint into the big hueco all while staring at an easy stem a few feet away. If you stemmed through this section on purpose (which feels natural), the route is maybe still 11ish..?

Probably a 3 star route, but giving it 4 stars to hopefully get more folks on it! Feb 21, 2017

Larry Rossi
Colorado Springs

Really fun, and I felt no guilt about stemming. Still felt like a 5.12 to me even with the stem. Mar 22, 2021

Matthew Dion
Tempe, AZ

Would love to hear the story behind the name Feb 20, 2023

Jon.R
Tucson, AZ

5.11+

+1 for this being in the 11 range if you use the stem Jan 23, 2024