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> Fat Albert Area
Fat Albert
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British
Avg: 3.6 from 5
votes
Routes in Fat Albert Area
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Fat Albert T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Fats Waller T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Optical Delusion T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Tapdancer (aka Upper Fat Albert) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | Possibly Dave Neff, early 1970's |
| Page Views: | 1,930 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | kurthicks on Mar 16, 2013 |
| Admins: | Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Description
Long known as Fat Albert this route was originally called Exfoliation Expressway. Either way this is the most classic and unique climb on the Clearwater. This good beginners lead follows a clean dihedral for about 25 meters before tunneling underneath a natural arch to the belay. Dont miss it! It is nearly impossible to top rope this route since lowering through the arch isnt easily accomplished and the pendulum is nasty!
P1) Start up the low angle corner using hand jams (superb!) and laybacking until forced to undercling the roof at the top. Just as things start looking desperate, squeeze into the arch and pop out on the belay ledge.
P1) Start up the low angle corner using hand jams (superb!) and laybacking until forced to undercling the roof at the top. Just as things start looking desperate, squeeze into the arch and pop out on the belay ledge.
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