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> Madness Wall
Being and Nothingness
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British A0+
Avg: 2 from 3
votes
Routes in Madness Wall
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Being and Nothingness S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0+ |
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Call Me Maybe T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Chouca S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A5+ |
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Here's My Number S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Holey Moley S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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More the Messier, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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No Place To Hide T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, Aid, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Gary Anderson, Art Messier |
| Page Views: | 1,537 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | TJ Esposito on Mar 11, 2013 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Advisory
Details
Please avoid raptor nests. El Cajon Mountain- Golden Eagles nested successfully at this site in 2009, after relocating twice between alternate nest sites. The Golden Eagle nest at El Cajon Mountain was not successful in Spring 2010. This nest was successful and fledged young in 2011 - 2021. Details from USFS posted here: fs.usda.gov/detail/clevelan…
The El Cajon Mountain climbing area is in close proximity to the San Diego River Park Foundation property. This property's purpose is to protect and conserve San Diego's threatened habitat and wildlife in perpetuity. Specifically, the San Diego River Park Foundation are protecting golden eagles that nest in the area and ceanothus, a California lilac that is an endemic sensitive plant species. Please avoid and limit recreational activities at the San Diego River Park Foundation property to promote San Diego's threatened habitat and wildlife. Thank you!
The El Cajon Mountain climbing area is in close proximity to the San Diego River Park Foundation property. This property's purpose is to protect and conserve San Diego's threatened habitat and wildlife in perpetuity. Specifically, the San Diego River Park Foundation are protecting golden eagles that nest in the area and ceanothus, a California lilac that is an endemic sensitive plant species. Please avoid and limit recreational activities at the San Diego River Park Foundation property to promote San Diego's threatened habitat and wildlife. Thank you!
Description
"Local classic"... "Must-do if you're in the area!"... Phrases that don't really apply to this route.
I'm guessing this one doesn't get a lot of traffic, lots of missing or loose holds; probably best to avoid it unless you want a pretty tough day on mostly mediocre rock. If climbing at your limit, bring a bail biner just in case for P2/P5 (There are two old rusted 1/8 quicklinks at the P5 crux, don't use those!)
P1 had a few hundred pounds or so of rotten blocks come off the final moves on 3/10/13, making for either super hard slab traverse (harder than the indicated 5.10) or a pendulum to the left to reach the first belay from the other side. You'll come up directly under rap anchors but skip them and move to the anchors to the left. (Indicated 10a, probably 10 A0+)
P2 is thin, delicate, hard, and sustained. Up and then traverse right on a dike. Hard to french free the crux. (Indicated 11c, probably at least 11d or tricky 11/A0)
P3 is also super sustained with a tricky mini-roof to pull. (Indicated 10d, probably 11a/b)
P4 is pretty sweet, the only pitch that seemed to be mostly intact. Crux just off the belay with some moderate liebacks/gastons, a really good elevator move on good holds, super strenuous high-feet liebacking to a roof that's way easier to pull than it would appear. Eases up a bit to the belay, fun hanging off another dike. (Indicated and probably 12a, can french free if needed)
P5 is a bit gritty and slabby then has an obvious crux with two ways to get past it depending on your strengths. Pretty much blank and you'll be hanging from slopers either way. Also difficult to french free. (Indicated 11a, probably mid 11)
Rapping from the first belay at the end of P5 (at the start of the ramp to the top) takes you down Essential Madness.
I'm guessing this one doesn't get a lot of traffic, lots of missing or loose holds; probably best to avoid it unless you want a pretty tough day on mostly mediocre rock. If climbing at your limit, bring a bail biner just in case for P2/P5 (There are two old rusted 1/8 quicklinks at the P5 crux, don't use those!)
P1 had a few hundred pounds or so of rotten blocks come off the final moves on 3/10/13, making for either super hard slab traverse (harder than the indicated 5.10) or a pendulum to the left to reach the first belay from the other side. You'll come up directly under rap anchors but skip them and move to the anchors to the left. (Indicated 10a, probably 10 A0+)
P2 is thin, delicate, hard, and sustained. Up and then traverse right on a dike. Hard to french free the crux. (Indicated 11c, probably at least 11d or tricky 11/A0)
P3 is also super sustained with a tricky mini-roof to pull. (Indicated 10d, probably 11a/b)
P4 is pretty sweet, the only pitch that seemed to be mostly intact. Crux just off the belay with some moderate liebacks/gastons, a really good elevator move on good holds, super strenuous high-feet liebacking to a roof that's way easier to pull than it would appear. Eases up a bit to the belay, fun hanging off another dike. (Indicated and probably 12a, can french free if needed)
P5 is a bit gritty and slabby then has an obvious crux with two ways to get past it depending on your strengths. Pretty much blank and you'll be hanging from slopers either way. Also difficult to french free. (Indicated 11a, probably mid 11)
Rapping from the first belay at the end of P5 (at the start of the ramp to the top) takes you down Essential Madness.
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