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Simple Twist of Fate
WI5-,
Ice, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 3.6 from 16
votes
FA: Tobin & Parks 12/1979
Alaska
> Anchorage & S C…
> Anchorage & S C…
> Valdez
> Keystone Canyon
Description
The prominent ice flow in the narrow gully between the huge routes Bridalveil Falls (left) and Greensteps (right). Ascend some 500' of snow/easy ice to the base of the business. If climbing with 60M ropes, one will have to build a belay at the bottom of the steeps, directly in the fall-line (not-advised). With 70M ropes, a belay can be built some 50' down and right of the hard climbing, providing the belayer with some margin of safety from the garbage chute. From here, climb a full ropelength of steep 80-90 degree ice, making sure to take advantage of the few nice rest stances. Semi-hanging/stance belay just below the alders. Rap from here via v-thread, or continue up a second pitch of much easier snow/ice ramp to a bolted rappel station at the rim of the canyon.
Location
The obvious gully/flow between the big routes Bridalveil Falls and Greensteps. 2 min approach from the large turnout on the west side of the road (assuming the Low River is frozen). Rap from bolts/v-threads back to your packs.
Protection
Many screws, v-thread material, HELMET!
[Hide Photo] Kelsey Gray with a great shot of Dan and Travis on Simple Twist
[Hide Photo] Simple Twist of Fate is the long narrow climb under the pine trees.
[Hide Photo] Jason Stuckey leading the crux pitch of Simple Twist of Fate WI5-
[Hide Photo] Mat on the way down from Simple Twist of Fate