Bridalveil Falls
WI5,
Ice, 800 ft (242 m), 5 pitches, Grade III,
Avg: 3.9 from 36
votes
FA: Jennings, Moore, & Tobin 12/1977
Alaska
> S Central Alaska
> S Central Alask…
> Valdez
> Keystone Canyon
Description
A classic long ice line with many steep pillars separated by easier low-angle snow ramps. Traditionally done in 5 pitches, but can be done in 4 with 70M ropes.
P1 - WI3-3+, up to a bolted belay/rap station in a cave on the left side of the flow.
P2 - WI4, traverse out right from the cave and up two steep sections of ice separated by a small ramp. Another easy ramp leads up and left to another cave belay from screws.
P3 - WI5, "The Killer Pillar." Traverse out right from the cave and up a sustained 30+M long pillar of 80-90 degree ice. Belay from alders or screws somewhere on the easy snow ramp above.
"P4" - (optional) move belay to start of final ice pitch.
P5 - WI3, up and right through weaknesses to the rim of the canyon. Belay from trees.
Location
The massive flow just a few hundred yards left of Greensteps, marked by a highway sign. Can't miss it. Approach from a large pullouton the west side of the road, ~ 2 minutes walk (assuming the Lowe River is frozen). Rappel from trees, v-threads, and finally a bolted anchor back to the base.
Protection
Many screws, v-thread materials, 3-bolt anchor/rap at top of P1, tree belay/rap at top of route.
[Hide Photo] Pat Thompson & me behind the Pillar of Pain, March 1986
[Hide Photo] Ilene freaking out in the ice cave at pitch one of bridal veil Falls WI4
[Hide Photo] Climbers on the crux "Killer Pillar" of Bridalveil Falls
[Hide Photo] Tim Stephens pulling out of the first pitch ice cave.
[Hide Photo] JR on the Killer Pillar
[Hide Photo] Bonfire at the base and party in the ice cave at the top of pitch 1 on Bridlevail Falls to bring in the new years.
[Hide Photo] Tooling around in the caves behind the falls.
[Hide Photo] The laidies are rocking the first pitch of Bridal Vail during a Ice Pixie Festival!!
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