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Bridalveil Falls

WI5, Ice, 800 ft (242 m), 5 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 3.9 from 36 votes
FA: Jennings, Moore, & Tobin 12/1977
Alaska > S Central Alaska > S Central Alask… > Valdez > Keystone Canyon

Description

A classic long ice line with many steep pillars separated by easier low-angle snow ramps. Traditionally done in 5 pitches, but can be done in 4 with 70M ropes.

P1 - WI3-3+, up to a bolted belay/rap station in a cave on the left side of the flow.

P2 - WI4, traverse out right from the cave and up two steep sections of ice separated by a small ramp. Another easy ramp leads up and left to another cave belay from screws.

P3 - WI5, "The Killer Pillar." Traverse out right from the cave and up a sustained 30+M long pillar of 80-90 degree ice. Belay from alders or screws somewhere on the easy snow ramp above.

"P4" - (optional) move belay to start of final ice pitch.

P5 - WI3, up and right through weaknesses to the rim of the canyon. Belay from trees.

Location

The massive flow just a few hundred yards left of Greensteps, marked by a highway sign. Can't miss it. Approach from a large pullouton the west side of the road, ~ 2 minutes walk (assuming the Lowe River is frozen). Rappel from trees, v-threads, and finally a bolted anchor back to the base.

Protection

Many screws, v-thread materials, 3-bolt anchor/rap at top of P1, tree belay/rap at top of route.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pat Thompson & me behind the Pillar of Pain, March 1986
[Hide Photo] Pat Thompson & me behind the Pillar of Pain, March 1986
Ilene freaking out in the ice cave at pitch one of bridal veil Falls WI4
[Hide Photo] Ilene freaking out in the ice cave at pitch one of bridal veil Falls WI4
Climbers on the crux "Killer Pillar" of Bridalveil Falls
[Hide Photo] Climbers on the crux "Killer Pillar" of Bridalveil Falls
Tim Stephens pulling out of the first pitch ice cave.
[Hide Photo] Tim Stephens pulling out of the first pitch ice cave.
Feu de Glace
[Hide Photo] Feu de Glace
Hero Ice!!
[Hide Photo] Hero Ice!!
JR on the Killer Pillar
[Hide Photo] JR on the Killer Pillar
Bonfire at the base and party in the ice cave at the top of pitch 1 on Bridlevail Falls to bring in the new years.<br>
[Hide Photo] Bonfire at the base and party in the ice cave at the top of pitch 1 on Bridlevail Falls to bring in the new years.
Tooling around in the caves behind the falls.
[Hide Photo] Tooling around in the caves behind the falls.
The laidies are rocking the first pitch of Bridal Vail during a Ice Pixie Festival!!
[Hide Photo] The laidies are rocking the first pitch of Bridal Vail during a Ice Pixie Festival!!
JR in the Bridalveil cave
[Hide Photo] JR in the Bridalveil cave
Myself starting P2
[Hide Photo] Myself starting P2

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

L Von Dommelheimer
Anchorage
 
John Dillman
Boise, ID
[Hide Comment] Note that the first ascent was made on two days with fixed lines. The first free ascent was made by Jim Hale and John Dillman a week later. Oct 24, 2020
Clint Helander
Anchorage, AK
[Hide Comment] John, was this Jim Hale of Anchorage, Alaska? Oct 24, 2020
Kyle Tarry
Portland, OR
 
[Hide Comment] A 70m rope is quite nice on this route, as it allows you to climb between the obvious safe belay stances. Jan 31, 2022
climbing coastie
Wasilla, AK
 
[Hide Comment] No need for a 70. Climbed it multiple times with 60’s and never belayed in an unsafe spot and always had rope leftover. Feb 8, 2023