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Voluptuous Ham(ster)
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British R
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in Pinnacle Peak
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28th Day T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Angels On My Mind S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Baby Woolsey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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BeeGee T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Beer Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Beezlebub T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Birthday Party T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Brown Out T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A2 |
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Chug A Lug T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chutes and Ladders T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Death Watch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Deep Throat T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Deliverance T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Dried Oatmeal T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dungeons and Dragons (AKA Burnt Toast) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Ezy Rider T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Fear of Crying T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Fear of Flying T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fine Line A2 |
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Flight 5.11 S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Flight 5.11 Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Free Bear Direct T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Garber's Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Give Me an Idea S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Good Vibrations T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hades T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hot Richard, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Just Standing Around S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lesson in Discipline T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lost Nuts T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Lucky Number 7, aka Unknown, left of Palo Verde S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Luna T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Name It T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Never Never Land T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Parallax View T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pecker Party S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Peg Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Powder Puff T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Rastaman Vibration T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Rossetti Rose T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Shalaylay Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sidewinder T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Silhouette S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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South Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Spiral Staircase T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Thee Ole Four-Three T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tongue of Time T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Unknown T,TR A3 R |
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Vanishing Point T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Voluptuous Ham(ster) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Walk Up T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Chuck Parker, 1973--5.5 (chimney) Jim Waugh, Jim Zahnm 1985--5.8 (Arete) |
| Page Views: | 1,402 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Ted Smith on Feb 6, 2013 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
The crux is getting past chossy stone and firmly engaging the chimney above an overhanging roof to the North of the chimney. After that, it is all about keeping a cool head as you make your way up the exposed, steep rock toward the top of the chimney, where an easy, protected (bolt) step across takes one to the North summit.
Protection
Large tube chocks (#5 Big Bro) will protect the 50 ft of chimney above. One might venture out left and clip the bolts on the arete (Hamster Variation), but a good 20 feet of climbing is needed above the horizontal before making the exposed move. At the top, one can either sling a boulder for an anchor, or run the rope all the way to the East side of the North summit, where 3 anchor bolts (huge) can be found.
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