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America's Cup
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British PG13
Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Alan Nelson and Dave Sessions, May 1st 1983 FFA: Kim Carrigan and Geoff Weigand, 1985 |
Page Views: | 4,175 total · 28/month |
Shared By: | Luke Stefurak on Feb 3, 2013 · Updates |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
This route climbs the zig-zaging crack just to the left of Red Zinger. Start on the face 10 feet to the left of Zinger, below a bolt. Easy moves to the bolt segue to a short face climbing boulder problem that can be done two ways. The sharp crimps allow passage to a finger crack and some more moderate climbing.
Clip a piton and embark on a series of insecure slaps up a "rail" feature. (The piton can be be backed up with a #1 a few feet below)
Micro cams can be pre-placed along the rail, but I don't think you could get them in on lead.
Once you have made it to the end of the rail a few more hard moves are required to stand up to a wide hand crack.
The crack often pinches out and requires a few more tricky sequences. Overall the climbing eases to 5.11- and you get to enjoy a variety of sizes from 2" on down.
The place to stop the first pitch is unclear with a poor slung block at about 140'. Alternately when you are at the height of the Red Zinger anchor you can face climb across (4 feet to the right) if only doing the first pitch. The second pitch finishes at the upper Meat Grinder anchor and has a few tricky sections but nothing harder than 5.10+ .
Clip a piton and embark on a series of insecure slaps up a "rail" feature. (The piton can be be backed up with a #1 a few feet below)
Micro cams can be pre-placed along the rail, but I don't think you could get them in on lead.
Once you have made it to the end of the rail a few more hard moves are required to stand up to a wide hand crack.
The crack often pinches out and requires a few more tricky sequences. Overall the climbing eases to 5.11- and you get to enjoy a variety of sizes from 2" on down.
The place to stop the first pitch is unclear with a poor slung block at about 140'. Alternately when you are at the height of the Red Zinger anchor you can face climb across (4 feet to the right) if only doing the first pitch. The second pitch finishes at the upper Meat Grinder anchor and has a few tricky sections but nothing harder than 5.10+ .
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