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Routes in Junkyard Wall
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[Redacted] T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Andropov's Cold T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ann's Revenge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Are You Not Entertained? T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bo Knows T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Bubba Meets Jesus T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Cave Routes 1 and 2 TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Churning in the Huecos T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Contortionist, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crack Sap T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Distortionist, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Entertainer, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Enteruptus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Equine Proctologist T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Four Sheets to the Wind T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Frigidator TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jumpin' Jack Flash T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Junk Yard Dog T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lapping the Sap T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mr. Ed T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mystery Dance T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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New River Gunks T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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New River Punks T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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New Yosemite T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Nine Lives T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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No Ragrets T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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On Your Left T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Paranoid Schizophrenia T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Rapscallion's Blues T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Reachers of Habit S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Reaching New Heights T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Realignment T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Rhododenema T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Scott's Turf Builder T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Stuck In Another Dimension T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Team Jesus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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V-Slot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Who Knows? T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Yew Nosemite T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Eric Horst 1987 |
| Page Views: | 2,397 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Whisenhunt on Jan 29, 2013 · Updates |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
Description
Start in a left facing corner directly to the right of New Yosemite and work your way up to the first horizontal and build a life nest. From there it seems that there are two different options. Head directly up using a sloping two finger pocket and a heel hook and then traverse right to the second horizontal. Or from the first horizontal stay low and traverse over to some small crimps and slimpers. Make a big move to small holds and traverse in right to the second horizontals. The first way is better protected, however the guidebook says go right, which puts you in a pretty bad place if you botch the moves to the second horizontal. Clear as mud?
Load up the second horizontal with tcus and smear those feet high for a big move utilizing a bad pinch. Move out of that sequence, clip the bolt and finish up easy terrain.
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