Type: Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Ron Funderburke, Danny McCracken, Barry Meyers
Page Views: 4,652 total · 32/month
Shared By: Ron Funderburke on Jan 10, 2013
Admins: Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

A slab and groove climb with a mixture of permanent and removable protection. The crux on the fourth pitch is a great primer for Laurel Knob climb: a teetering rock up on tenuous smears, but with reasonable protection.

P1. Pad up onto the slabs about 50 feet left of Mike Fischesser’s Girdle Traverse. There is an obvious left facing feature in the bulge overhead. Clip a bolt, an continue up the base of the bulge. There is a nice #3 Camalot to protect the moves as you stand up and a high bolt will keep you from plopping back onto the slab. Bust the 5.8+ crux on crystals, clip another bolt and trend slightly right to a two bolt anchor. (5.8+, 100 feet)
P2. Take a direct line to a two bolt anchor that is up an right, crossing over Fischesser’s Girdle traverse at a bolt. After the bolt, a clever gear nest can be constructed in an eyebrow and an oddly compelling #3 Camalot will stab into a huge pod to help protect the pitch.
P3. Cruise up the easier slab towards the Three Way Ledge with two bolts and some marginal TCUs along the way. (5.4, 100 feet)
P4. Off the Three Way Ledge, get gear under a huge flake/bulge, find more gear in horizontals, and stage up beneath the obvious bulging section just right of the central water groove (Socket Rocket). Teeter on up through this 5.7 with mixed trad and two bolts to an accommodating ledge with a double bolt anchor. (100’ 5.7)
P5. Veer off right, place some sneaky tricams before another final bulge, and clip two more bolts as you mosey to the top. (5.6 100 feet)

Descent: Rap the route with a pair of 60m ropes or one 70m.

Location Suggest change

Scramble down the pine-straw carpeting from Mike Fischesser's Girdle Traverse. Start beneath an obvious bulge that looms above 40 feet of easy slabbing.

Protection Suggest change

Every pitch on Biopsy protects with a traditional North Carolina rack. There are bolts to protect sections which lack adequate gear. Every Pitch has a bolted anchor. The climb can be descended with a pair of 60M ropes or a single 70M.

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