Sun Devil Crack
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British PG13
Avg: 2.8 from 12 votes
Type: | Trad, 280 ft (85 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Ken Sims |
Page Views: | 1,870 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Aaron Miller on Jan 6, 2013 |
Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Description
An instant classic trad line, the obvious wide crack on the Sun Devil Wall. Very fun stemming, chimneying, face climbing and jamming up 170' of wide corner.
Location
Just left of Sun Devil, just right of Astro Devil. Starts from the Sun Devil Ledge and climbs up 170 feet to belay ledge at top of crag. From the top belay, there is a short scramble to the top of the crag for the view (should be mandatory) via tunneling under the giant chockstone and up the gulley. Optional walk off back to car is easy too.
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