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Second Amendment
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 3.1 from 13 votes
Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | 20th Sept 2012 Tom Lane |
Page Views: | 919 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | Jay Harrison on Dec 24, 2012 |
Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Description
Challenging friction followed by a difficult overhang.
P1 105' 5.10a: (V1) Climb onto a rounded stance below a larger "scoop", clip a bolt then make difficult moves left, up, then back right to get into the scoop. Follow clean orange rock upward, passing 2 small overlaps before reaching a standing belay 35' below the overhang.
P2 95' 5.10b: Climb up easily (V2) to the overhang, to an awkward stance right of a left side-pull. Then make weird and strenuous moves to pass the obstacle. A short bit of unprotected 5.6+ climbing leads to easy slab. Move up left to the ouside edge of a corner facing right, and climb this to an oak tree.
The two variations, taken together, comprise "Bill of Rights", a means of doing this route at a moderate 5.8+ rating.
(V1) 5.8: Climb up the right-rising crack, make a funky move up onto a sloping ledge, and move back left to join the route. This bypasses the 5.10 start.
(V2) 5.8+: Climb up easy slab, heading to the left edge of the overhang. Climb through it on the left edge, and continue along the left edge of the face, rejoining the route at the outside corner.
P1 105' 5.10a: (V1) Climb onto a rounded stance below a larger "scoop", clip a bolt then make difficult moves left, up, then back right to get into the scoop. Follow clean orange rock upward, passing 2 small overlaps before reaching a standing belay 35' below the overhang.
P2 95' 5.10b: Climb up easily (V2) to the overhang, to an awkward stance right of a left side-pull. Then make weird and strenuous moves to pass the obstacle. A short bit of unprotected 5.6+ climbing leads to easy slab. Move up left to the ouside edge of a corner facing right, and climb this to an oak tree.
The two variations, taken together, comprise "Bill of Rights", a means of doing this route at a moderate 5.8+ rating.
(V1) 5.8: Climb up the right-rising crack, make a funky move up onto a sloping ledge, and move back left to join the route. This bypasses the 5.10 start.
(V2) 5.8+: Climb up easy slab, heading to the left edge of the overhang. Climb through it on the left edge, and continue along the left edge of the face, rejoining the route at the outside corner.
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