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Routes in (9) Above the Waves
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BA Insanity T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cat's Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Climax T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Cold Sushi T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cunning Linguist T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Dangerous Games T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Doublethink T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fillet Show T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gold Club T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gold Member T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Golden Shower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Goldline T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Happy Endings T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lap Dance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Let's Do The Trad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lost Horizon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Love You Long Time T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Ocean's Eleven T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Orange Juice S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pearl Necklace T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Psycho Killer T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Rastafarian Seabirds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Snake Alley T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tanz en Den Mai T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Tofu Tower T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Dirk Saenger, Edgar Boehm (2003) |
| Page Views: | 867 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Nate Ball on Dec 24, 2012 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball |
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Description
This route will test your ability to remain composed amongst loose rock and questionable protection. If you're not looking for alpine training, just do the first pitch.
P1 - Two stars. Start up slightly overhanging rock with big features and tricky placements. At the ledge, continue straight up a short but stellar jam crack. Finish on easy rock, trending left to a nice belay ledge with a titanium anchor.
P2 - Bomb. Step left into the slabby, grassy choss and then up into the chunky, loose dihedral. Hopefully you can get some decent gear in here. Climb delicately, cruxing through some big pulls on questionable blocks, until the dihedral narrows, and gun it to the big grassy ledge. To the right are the bolts for the second pitch of Bicolor, which you can use to belay if you want.
P3 - Bomb. Try not to slip on the grass, and continue into the corner chimney to the right, find whatever gear you can, and finish on the ledge. Two raps with a 60m will get you down.
P1 - Two stars. Start up slightly overhanging rock with big features and tricky placements. At the ledge, continue straight up a short but stellar jam crack. Finish on easy rock, trending left to a nice belay ledge with a titanium anchor.
P2 - Bomb. Step left into the slabby, grassy choss and then up into the chunky, loose dihedral. Hopefully you can get some decent gear in here. Climb delicately, cruxing through some big pulls on questionable blocks, until the dihedral narrows, and gun it to the big grassy ledge. To the right are the bolts for the second pitch of Bicolor, which you can use to belay if you want.
P3 - Bomb. Try not to slip on the grass, and continue into the corner chimney to the right, find whatever gear you can, and finish on the ledge. Two raps with a 60m will get you down.
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