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> First Pew
Elmo Amber Alert
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Type: | Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Estes Park locals, equipped by Joe Vallone & friend |
Page Views: | 1,243 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | Leo Paik on Nov 27, 2012 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Sheep Mountain may have raptor closure issues. Please contact RMNP for further details.
Description
This is the leftmost of the 4 sport climbs put in late 2012 on the far right side of the 1st Pew. It ascends a blunt arete just left of a crack/shallow dihedral.
Face climb up on good edges. After the 3rd bolt (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13), place a cam or two in the crack. You can move slightly right with your feet (probably easier) or face climb on the left (probably harder) to gain some bigger knobs again. Continue up to a 2 bolt anchor (1 Fixe ring anchor and 1 Fixe hanger with a link (which seem to have been removed as of 5/14/13)).
Rappel 60' or continue up to Georgia Style.
Joe writes that "Kim Jong Ill" is not the name given to this route.
Given the recent bolt chopping, this route probably is now 5.7 R and appears to have no anchor.
Face climb up on good edges. After the 3rd bolt (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13), place a cam or two in the crack. You can move slightly right with your feet (probably easier) or face climb on the left (probably harder) to gain some bigger knobs again. Continue up to a 2 bolt anchor (1 Fixe ring anchor and 1 Fixe hanger with a link (which seem to have been removed as of 5/14/13)).
Rappel 60' or continue up to Georgia Style.
Joe writes that "Kim Jong Ill" is not the name given to this route.
Given the recent bolt chopping, this route probably is now 5.7 R and appears to have no anchor.
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