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Routes in East Fin Gully
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Fish For Brains S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Men of Mayhem S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Odd Couple, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Pabst Schmear, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wave of Mutilation, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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| Type: | Sport, 180 ft (55 m) |
| FA: | Troy Anderson, Tyler Phillips, Todd Stephens 2009 |
| Page Views: | 1,500 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Stevie Nacho on Nov 25, 2012 · Updates |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
The crux for the route is either the unprotected mantle (cheeks) at the start or the middle of the route. This bolted slab archs up and right past many bolts through a brilliant and clean granite slab. The pitch is interrupted by a ledge with trees, then goes back to clean sweeping granite. There is a second pitch above this with two variations with both ending at the same anchors. You can rap both pitches of this route with a single (60M) rope.
Location
This route is located up the gulley below the fin. If you hike up the gulley directly below "The Gills" and to the right of "Lizard Head Buttress," this is the slab at the very top of the gulley. The start can be recognized by a slab in the trees that has two chickenheads that look like buttcheecks with a bolt above them. The mantle up to the bolt is exposed.
Photos
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