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Cold Steel Boner
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British PG13
Avg: 2.5 from 24
votes
Routes in Balcony Jr.
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7 Second Peel V0 4 |
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Abolitionists Fury T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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B&O Burn T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bat Crack V0 4 |
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Bat Crack low V1 5 |
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Bright Lights V1 5 |
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Cold Steel Boner T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Cupcakes and Unicorns 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Damn Leaves V3-4 6A+ |
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Fly With the Crows TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Forearm Furnace TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Forge-Get the Burn T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Founder's Forge, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gravitas Free Zone TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Grooving Up Slowly T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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HorrorZontals T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Little Sugarlump 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Mojo Filter T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mojo Filter (right) T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Princess Pullups 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Punk Dunkin' V0 4 |
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Salty Dog Saloon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Serious Callers Only T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Shorty Blunt V4-5 6B+ |
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Third Degree Burn V3+ 6A+ |
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Thumbsucker 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Tree-oh V0 4 |
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Tried for Skeezin TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Valley of Fear V3 6A |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,710 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | C S on Nov 21, 2012 · Updates |
| Admins: | Frances Fierst, C S |
Description
Easy ramp down low, or climb the juggy face ledges up to a short somewhat slippery corner up high. Slight lay back but lots of feet and pretty big jugs. Crux is right after the roof, into the dihedral, and the very top is challenging to finish. Watch for falling debris if people above cliff. Steep slope sheds debris easily. There are some wet spots due to seepage, but it’s a decent route. Also you can rapp down to the anchor from above and set TR, if you want.
Location
Left side of the middle section of the cliff, right below the large prominent left facing dihedral on upper half of the route, above a small roof.
Protection
Good options for pro throughout, cams and tricams work well, microcams in some spots if you want. Can use some big hexes in a few spots. The ledges have a bit of deck hazard if you don’t place smartly. Crux is where the single bolt is, because there isn’t much of an option for pro here. Extend with slings for rope safety.
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